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Author: John Casey Church
Publisher:
ISBN:
Category : Littoral drift
Languages : en
Pages : 140
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Book Description
The momentum equation governing mean longshore currents on straight beaches is a balance of forcing from the momentum transfer of the oscillatory wave motion, turbulent momentum transfer (mixing), and bottom stress. Of these, the wave's contribution is well understood, but the remaining two are not, principally due to the complicated hydrodynamics of the surf-zone. Addressing the bottom stress term, a longshore current model is developed which includes a modification of the bottom stress due to the effects of breaking-wave induced turbulence. A one-dimensional turbulent kinetic energy equation is used to model this breaking-wave induced turbulence, producing a spatially varying bottom friction coefficient. The modeled longshore current cross-shore profiles show improved agreement with field observations. In a second bottom stress study, vertical profiles of mean longshore currents are examined using field data obtained with vertically stacked electromagnetic current meters with the goal of measuring the bottom stress and its associated drag coefficient. The profiles are observed to become vertically uniform whenever the ratio of wave height to depth exceeds 0.3, indicating that nearly all of the waves passing a given location are breaking. Finally, horizontal turbulent momentum transfer (mixing) is examined for the case of shear instabilities of the longshore current.
Author: John Casey Church
Publisher:
ISBN:
Category : Littoral drift
Languages : en
Pages : 140
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Book Description
The momentum equation governing mean longshore currents on straight beaches is a balance of forcing from the momentum transfer of the oscillatory wave motion, turbulent momentum transfer (mixing), and bottom stress. Of these, the wave's contribution is well understood, but the remaining two are not, principally due to the complicated hydrodynamics of the surf-zone. Addressing the bottom stress term, a longshore current model is developed which includes a modification of the bottom stress due to the effects of breaking-wave induced turbulence. A one-dimensional turbulent kinetic energy equation is used to model this breaking-wave induced turbulence, producing a spatially varying bottom friction coefficient. The modeled longshore current cross-shore profiles show improved agreement with field observations. In a second bottom stress study, vertical profiles of mean longshore currents are examined using field data obtained with vertically stacked electromagnetic current meters with the goal of measuring the bottom stress and its associated drag coefficient. The profiles are observed to become vertically uniform whenever the ratio of wave height to depth exceeds 0.3, indicating that nearly all of the waves passing a given location are breaking. Finally, horizontal turbulent momentum transfer (mixing) is examined for the case of shear instabilities of the longshore current.
Author: Carlos Manuel da Costa Ventura Soares
Publisher:
ISBN:
Category : Ocean circulation
Languages : en
Pages : 84
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Book Description
Author: Peter Stiff
Publisher: Hodder Education
ISBN: 1510432442
Category : Science
Languages : en
Pages : 208
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Book Description
Exam board: AQA, Edexcel, OCR, WJEC/Eduqas Level: A-level Subject: Geography First teaching: September 2016 First exams: Summer 2017 (AS); Summer 2018 (A-level) Master the in-depth knowledge and higher-level skills that A-level Geography students need to succeed; this focused topic book extends learning far beyond your course textbooks. Blending detailed content and case studies with questions, exemplars and guidance, this book: - Significantly improves students' knowledge and understanding of A-level content and concepts, providing more coverage of Coastal Landscapes than your existing resources - Strengthens students' analytical and interpretative skills through questions that involve a range of geographical data sources, with guidance on how to approach each task - Demonstrates how to evaluate issues, with a dedicated section in every chapter that shows how to think geographically, consider relevant evidence and structure a balanced essay - Equips students with everything they need to excel, from additional case studies and definitions of key terminology, to suggestions for further research and fieldwork ideas for the Independent Investigation - Helps students check, apply and consolidate their learning, using end-of-chapter refresher questions and discussion points, plus tailored advice for the AQA, Edexcel, OCR and WJEC/Eduqas specifications - Offers trusted and reliable content, written by a team of highly experienced senior examiners and reviewed by academics with unparalleled knowledge of the latest geographical theories
Author:
Publisher:
ISBN:
Category :
Languages : en
Pages : 24
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Book Description
Author: A.C. Brown
Publisher: Elsevier
ISBN: 0080465099
Category : Science
Languages : en
Pages : 387
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Book Description
The Ecology of Sandy Shores provides the students and researchers with a one-volume resource for understanding the conservation and management of the sandy shore ecosystem. Covering all beach types, and addressing issues from the behavioral and physiological adaptations of the biota to exploring the effects of pollution and the impact of man's activities, this book should become the standard reference for those interested in Sandy Shore study, management and preservation. More than 25% expanded from the previous edition Three entirely new chapters: Energetics and Nutrient Cycling, Turtles and Terrestrial Vertebrates, and Benthic Macrofauna Populations New sections on the interstitial environment, seagrasses, human impacts and coastal zone management Examples drawn from virtually all parts of the world, considering all beach types from the most exposed to the most sheltered
Author: R. W.G. Carter
Publisher: Elsevier
ISBN: 0080502148
Category : Science
Languages : en
Pages : 634
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Book Description
This original volume draws on the author's own research experiences in Ireland, Britain, France, Canada, and the United States to present a guide of coastal environments for applications of shoreline and environmental management. Topics include: long-term development of coasts, water supply and waste disposal, energy resources and coastal water management, coastal water management for recreation, coastal management of storm hazards, and managing world sea-level rise.
Author: Cyril Jerome Galvin
Publisher:
ISBN:
Category :
Languages : en
Pages : 362
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Book Description
Author: Derek Jackson
Publisher: Elsevier
ISBN: 0081029276
Category : Science
Languages : en
Pages : 814
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Book Description
Sandy beaches represent some of the most dynamic environments on Earth and examining their morphodynamic behaviour over different temporal and spatial scales is challenging, relying on multidisciplinary approaches and techniques. Sandy Beach Morphodynamics brings together the latest research on beach systems and their morphodynamics and the ways in which they are studied in 29 chapters that review the full spectrum of beach morphodynamics. The chapters are written by leading experts in the field and provide introductory level understanding of physical processes and resulting landforms, along with more advanced discussions. Includes chapters that are written by the world's leading experts, including the latest up-to-date thinking on a variety of subject areas Covers state-of-the-art techniques, bringing the reader the latest technologies/methods being used to understand beach systems Presents a clear-and-concise description of processes and techniques that enables a clear understanding of coastal processes
Author: Cyril Jerome Galvin
Publisher:
ISBN:
Category : Littoral drift
Languages : en
Pages : 42
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Book Description
Author: H.-E. Reineck
Publisher: Springer Science & Business Media
ISBN: 3642814980
Category : Science
Languages : en
Pages : 566
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Book Description
From the reviews: "...This is an extremely useful reference text for the sedimentary geologist to own. It is well produced with clear illustrations and text, and gives excellent factual information on a large number of topics." (Palaeogeography, Palaeoclimatology, Palaeoecology) "...represents a significant contribution to the literature of geoscience. It should be in the library of anyone seriously intereted in sedimentology."(Marine Geology) "This book is still unsurpassed in providing a good, basic synthesis of modern sedimentary environments, especially the physical attributes of the deposits being formed and the processes responsible..." (Sedimentary Geology)
