The Encyclopedia of Surfing

The Encyclopedia of Surfing PDF Author: Matt Warshaw
Publisher: Houghton Mifflin Harcourt
ISBN: 9780156032513
Category : Reference
Languages : en
Pages : 820

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Book Description
With 1,500 alphabetical entries and 300 illustrations, this resource is a comprehensive review of the people, places, events, equipment, vernacular, and lively history of this fascinating sport.

The Encyclopedia of Surfing

The Encyclopedia of Surfing PDF Author: Matt Warshaw
Publisher: Houghton Mifflin Harcourt
ISBN: 9780156032513
Category : Reference
Languages : en
Pages : 820

Get Book Here

Book Description
With 1,500 alphabetical entries and 300 illustrations, this resource is a comprehensive review of the people, places, events, equipment, vernacular, and lively history of this fascinating sport.

Surfing: A Beginner's Guide

Surfing: A Beginner's Guide PDF Author: Alf Alderson
Publisher: Fernhurst Books Limited
ISBN: 1912177862
Category : Sports & Recreation
Languages : en
Pages : 212

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Book Description
Surfing: A Beginner's Guide has been the go-to surf book for beginners since 1996. This third edition, now with the endorsement of Surfing England, takes you through all the vital steps to become a surfer: you will learn where to surf, when to surf and how to surf safely.You will learn the foundations such as choosing the correct equipment, which is essential to make any progress as a beginner; pre-surf preparation, including getting fit with tips and advice; and your first surfer steps on the beach and in the ocean. All these stages lead up to you catching your very first wave and the surfing bug. The sea is renowned for its beauty, but infamous for its dangers. Alf provides you with transferable skills to safely enjoy your new hobby. Safety features heavily in the book, and you will learn all the basic common-sense aspects of surfing that even the most experienced surfer forgets.

The Book of Surfing

The Book of Surfing PDF Author: Michael Fordham
Publisher: Harper Collins
ISBN: 0062242024
Category : Sports & Recreation
Languages : en
Pages : 525

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Book Description
Everything you need to know about waves Classic surf trips, from California to Cornwall Iconic surf movies and legendary image-makers Profiles of surfing greats, including Miki Dora, Nat Young, and Kelly Slater Practical advice—from becoming a greener surfer to travel essentials and how surfing conquered the world! It was the sport of Polynesian princes whose names have been lost to history. It is a lifestyle, an art, a sacred rite, a belief system—a unique way of being that deeply tunes the wave-rider into the planet's natural rhythms. It is a billion-dollar industry with millionaire superstars. It is ocean and adrenaline and magic. The Book of Surfing is a one-stop killer guide to the complete surfing universe for the long-time enthusiast and movie alike.

Surfing

Surfing PDF Author: Douglas G. Booth
Publisher: Bloomsbury Publishing USA
ISBN: 0313380430
Category : Sports & Recreation
Languages : en
Pages : 182

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Book Description
This guide showcases the world of extreme surfing, describing the unique culture associated with this daredevil's sport, providing insights into what makes the top riders tick, explaining the science of big waves, and more. "The Pipeline" in O'ahu, Hawaii. "Maverick's Point" in northern California. "Ours" near Sydney, Australia. All over the world, extreme surfers risk severe injury or even death from riptides, shark attacks, and collisions with the seabed itself, just to experience the ultimate high from tackling—and triumphing over—one of the most powerful forces on earth. Surfing: The Ultimate Guide explains the culture of extreme surfing—including the often violent "locals only" mentality—and analyzes the dangers involved in riding the world's biggest and most ferocious waves. The author examines the history of extreme surfing, including past and contemporary heroes; the science of giant waves; the technical criteria for riding them; and the future of big-wave riding.

Play

Play PDF Author: Colleen Corcoran
Publisher: Colleen Corcoran
ISBN: 0989982017
Category : Sports & Recreation
Languages : en
Pages : 190

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Book Description
Inventors, explorers, athletes, scientists, and mystics of the kinesthetic realm speak on the subject of sport, the environment, creative pursuits, religion, neuroscience, fear, flow, mortality, and discovery - one who walked on the moon, marginal characters who helped to make mountain biking mainstream, a B.A.S.E. jumper, a boulderer, Gidget, and those many others who would harness the power of play for oftentimes transformative ends. Who invented the bungee jump? What are the limits of human endurance, of speed up a mountain, or survival at sea? How did it all begin? What motivates those who go in search of the unknown? Where will it end, and what's the point of it anyway? "It's the spirit of innovation and anti-conformity and doing things differently," says Alexander Rufus-Isaacs, a founding member of England's Dangerous Sports Club (an experiment in weird adventures and alternative sporting events). "A manifestation of joy," "a Don Quixote adventure," "the most exhilarating moment that you'll ever feel in your life," and "a great step into the unknown," according to others.

Barbarian Days

Barbarian Days PDF Author: William Finnegan
Publisher: Penguin
ISBN: 0143109391
Category : Biography & Autobiography
Languages : en
Pages : 466

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Book Description
**Winner of the 2016 Pulitzer Prize for Autobiography** Included in President Obama’s 2016 Summer Reading List “Without a doubt, the finest surf book I’ve ever read . . . ” —The New York Times Magazine Barbarian Days is William Finnegan’s memoir of an obsession, a complex enchantment. Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates, it is something else: a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a morally dangerous pastime, a way of life. Raised in California and Hawaii, Finnegan started surfing as a child. He has chased waves all over the world, wandering for years through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa. A bookish boy, and then an excessively adventurous young man, he went on to become a distinguished writer and war reporter. Barbarian Days takes us deep into unfamiliar worlds, some of them right under our noses—off the coasts of New York and San Francisco. It immerses the reader in the edgy camaraderie of close male friendships forged in challenging waves. Finnegan shares stories of life in a whites-only gang in a tough school in Honolulu. He shows us a world turned upside down for kids and adults alike by the social upheavals of the 1960s. He details the intricacies of famous waves and his own apprenticeships to them. Youthful folly—he drops LSD while riding huge Honolua Bay, on Maui—is served up with rueful humor. As Finnegan’s travels take him ever farther afield, he discovers the picturesque simplicity of a Samoan fishing village, dissects the sexual politics of Tongan interactions with Americans and Japanese, and navigates the Indonesian black market while nearly succumbing to malaria. Throughout, he surfs, carrying readers with him on rides of harrowing, unprecedented lucidity. Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, an intellectual autobiography, a social history, a literary road movie, and an extraordinary exploration of the gradual mastering of an exacting, little-understood art.

Surfing's Greatest Misadventures

Surfing's Greatest Misadventures PDF Author: Paul Diamond
Publisher: Casagrande Press LLC
ISBN: 0976951606
Category : Medical
Languages : en
Pages : 372

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Book Description
Surfing's Greatest Misadventures contains thirty of themost engaging, humorous and unbelievable stories ofsurfing life from the past fifty years. Culled fromhundreds of submissions, the non-fiction stories selectedfor this one-of-a-kind collection run the gamut from theterrifying to the comical to the downright bizarre. Thestories ......

Surfing in Hawai'i

Surfing in Hawai'i PDF Author: Timothy Tovar DeLaVega
Publisher: Arcadia Publishing
ISBN: 9780738574882
Category : Sports & Recreation
Languages : en
Pages : 132

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Book Description
When the early European explorers traversed the globe, their journals held numerous accounts of Hawaiians enjoying surfing. Since Europeans of that era were not accustomed to swimming in their own cold waters, it must have seemed like a dream to watch naked native Hawaiians riding the waves of a turbulent sea. Nowhere in the ancient world was surfing as ingrained into the culture as on the islands of Hawai'i. He'e nalu (wave sliding) was the national sport and enjoyed by all. When a swell was up, whole villages were deserted as everyone fled to the beach to test their surfing skills. Legends of famous surf riders were retold in mele (song/chant), and fortunes could be decided on the outcome of a surfing contest. From these shores, modern surfing was born, along with the iconic romantic images of bronzed surfers, grass shacks, and hula.

Surfing and Social Theory

Surfing and Social Theory PDF Author: Nick Ford
Publisher: Taylor & Francis
ISBN: 9780415334334
Category : Social Science
Languages : en
Pages : 220

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Book Description
Drawing on popular surf culture, academic literature and the analytical tools of social theory, this is the first sustained commentary on the contemporary social and cultural meaning of surfing, exploring mind and body, emotions, and aesthetics.

Surfing for God

Surfing for God PDF Author: Michael John Cusick
Publisher: Thomas Nelson
ISBN: 0849949939
Category : Self-Help
Languages : en
Pages : 225

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Book Description
Discover how the barrier built by porn addiction can become a bridge to abundant life. Using personal examples, scriptural illustrations, and 20 years of counseling experience, Cusick will help you understand how to break free from the prison of sexual addiction. What if lust for porn is really a search for true passion? In a world where there are 68 million searches for pornography every day and where over 70 percent of Christian men report viewing porn in the last year, it's no surprise that more and more men struggle with an addiction to this false fantasy. Common wisdom says if they just had more willpower or more faith, their fight would be over. But is the answer really that simple? According to counselor and ministry leader Michael John Cusick, the answer is no—but the big truth may be much more freeing. Backed by scripture, Cusick uses examples from his own life and from his twenty years of counseling experience to show us how the pursuit of empty pleasure is really a search for our heart's deepest desire—and the real key to resistance is discovering and embracing the joy we truly want. Cusick discusses the origins of sexual addiction, the need for affirmation, and the heart that aches for God while falling into relapse. Handling a difficult topic with grace, mercy and honesty, Cusick's insights will help you understand: How porn struggles begin What to do to prevent those struggles How to overcome compulsions once they begin An essential resource centered on the sustaining love of Christ, this book will help guide anyone battling sex addiction or those in ministry seeking to provide encouragement to those struggling.