Prediction of Wave Height in Shallow Water PDF Download
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Author: Edward F. Thompson
Publisher:
ISBN:
Category : Wind waves
Languages : en
Pages : 28
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Book Description
Author: Edward F. Thompson
Publisher:
ISBN:
Category : Wind waves
Languages : en
Pages : 28
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Book Description
Author: Cyril Jerome Galvin
Publisher:
ISBN:
Category : Water waves
Languages : en
Pages : 32
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Book Description
Author: Edward F. Thompson
Publisher:
ISBN:
Category :
Languages : en
Pages :
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Book Description
Author: Cyril J. Jr Galvin
Publisher:
ISBN:
Category :
Languages : en
Pages :
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Book Description
Author: Charles L. Bretschneider
Publisher:
ISBN:
Category : Ocean waves
Languages : en
Pages : 38
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Book Description
Author: Willard J Pierson
Publisher:
ISBN:
Category : Hydrology
Languages : en
Pages : 312
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Book Description
Author: J. Piorewicz
Publisher:
ISBN: 9781876674212
Category : Ocean waves
Languages : en
Pages : 66
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Book Description
"There are a few empirical models that predict wave parameters in shallow waters. This report compares two empirical models : Shore Protection Manual model (SPM, 1984) modified later by Hurdle and Strive (1989); and Krylov model (described in Massel, 1996) with field data recorded with Datawell waverider buoy, installed at the depth of 22 m LAT, on the edge of Keppel Bay (Central Queensland, Australia). Four years of recorded data was analysed. Approximately 430 wave conditions covering the range of significant wave data from 0.5 m to 3.5 m; and peak period from 3 to 13 s, with duration of over 9 hrs in each case was selected for detailed analysis. Not far from the wave-recording buoy is a weather station located on Rundle Island where wind conditions have been recorded automatically every 3 hours. Analysis has shown that both models significantly overestimate predicted wave heights and periods compared with recorded ones. Vincent and Hughes (1985) formula for significant wave height in the depth-control wave train, when modified by the author by including dispersion of waves, represents recorded data very accurately. In addition waves with long periods (>9 sec), considered as swell waves were analysed to evaluate predominant swell direction. The proper knowledge of dominant swell waves' direction is important in consideration of coastline realignment as a sustainable "soft" method of beach stabilization."--p. i.
Author: Osvald J. Sibul
Publisher: Forgotten Books
ISBN: 9781397356567
Category : Science
Languages : en
Pages : 44
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Book Description
Excerpt from Laboratory Study of the Generation of Wind Waves in Shallow Water The prediction of wave characteristics in shallow water is of great importance along much of the Gulf Coast of the United States, as well as for many inland water areas (as Lake Okeechobee, Florida). This has been difficult in the past as the effect of the shallow bottom is considerable, particularly in reducing the wave height from what would be expected by use of the deep water wave prediction methods. This report gives the results of some laboratory studies of wave generation in shallow water in a small enclosed wind-wave tank. About the Publisher Forgotten Books publishes hundreds of thousands of rare and classic books. Find more at www.forgottenbooks.com This book is a reproduction of an important historical work. Forgotten Books uses state-of-the-art technology to digitally reconstruct the work, preserving the original format whilst repairing imperfections present in the aged copy. In rare cases, an imperfection in the original, such as a blemish or missing page, may be replicated in our edition. We do, however, repair the vast majority of imperfections successfully; any imperfections that remain are intentionally left to preserve the state of such historical works.
Author: Stanislaw R. Massel
Publisher: World Scientific
ISBN: 9814460125
Category : Science
Languages : en
Pages : 690
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Book Description
The book contains a comprehensive study on surface ocean waves induced by wind, earthquakes, and possibly landslides and asteroids impacts. Basic mathematical principles, physical description of the observed phenomena, practical forecasting techniques of the various wave parameters and extended application in ocean and coastal engineering, are discussed from the stochastic point of view. New topics include wave breaking mechanisms in deep- and shallow water, and freak waves.
Author: Stanislaw Ryszard Massel
Publisher: World Scientific
ISBN: 9814502286
Category : Technology & Engineering
Languages : en
Pages : 509
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Book Description
New Edition: Ocean Surface Waves: Their Physics and Prediction (3rd Edition)This book is intended as a handbook for professionals and researchers in the areas of Physical Oceanography, Ocean and Coastal Engineering and as a text for graduate students in these fields.It presents a comprehensive study on surface ocean waves induced by wind, including basic mathematical principles, physical description of the observed phenomena, practical forecasting techniques of various wave parameters and applications in ocean and coastal engineering, all from the probabilistic and spectral points of view.The book commences with a description of mechanisms of surface wave generation by wind and its modern modeling techniques. The stochastic and probabilistic terminology is introduced and the basic statistical and spectral properties of ocean waves are developed and discussed in detail.The bulk of material deals with the prediction techniques for waves in deep and coastal waters for simple and complex ocean basins and complex bathymetry. The various prediction methods, currently used in oceanography and ocean engineering, are described and the examples of practical calculations illustrate the basic text.An appendix provides a description of the modern methods of wave measurement, including the remote sensing techniques. Also the wave simulation methods and random data analysis techniques are discussed. In the book a lot of discoveries of the Russian and East European scientists, largely unknown in the Western literature due to the language barrier, are referred to.
