I Surf, Therefore I Am

I Surf, Therefore I Am PDF Author: Peter Kreeft
Publisher:
ISBN: 9781587313776
Category : Philosophy
Languages : en
Pages : 0

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Book Description


If Einstein Had Been a Surfer

If Einstein Had Been a Surfer PDF Author: Peter Kreeft
Publisher:
ISBN:
Category : Philosophy
Languages : en
Pages : 192

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Book Description
Science, philosophy and poetry, myth and mysticism are three modes of consciousness that are radically different today. Almost no one tries to connect them in a synthesis in which each maintains its own identity yet each contributes to a greater whole that no one of them could attain alone. This book dares to try and find a "Theory of Everything"--From back cover.

Surfing with Sartre

Surfing with Sartre PDF Author: Aaron James
Publisher: Anchor
ISBN: 0385540744
Category : Philosophy
Languages : en
Pages : 342

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Book Description
From the bestselling author of Assholes: A Theory, a book that—in the tradition of Shopclass as Soulcraft, Barbarian Days and Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance—uses the experience and the ethos of surfing to explore key concepts in philosophy. The existentialist philosopher Jean-Paul Sartre once declared "the ideal limit of aquatic sports . . . is waterskiing." The avid surfer and lavishly credentialed academic philosopher Aaron James vigorously disagrees, and in Surfing with Sartre he intends to expound the thinking surfer's view of the matter, in the process elucidating such philosophical categories as freedom, being, phenomenology, morality, epistemology, and even the emerging values of what he terms "leisure capitalism." In developing his unique surfer-philosophical worldview, he draws from his own experience of surfing and from surf culture and lingo, and includes many relevant details from the lives of the philosophers, from Aristotle to Wittgenstein, with whose thought he engages. In the process, he'll speak to readers in search of personal and social meaning in our current anxious moment, by way of doing real, authentic philosophy.

Surfing Uncertainty

Surfing Uncertainty PDF Author: Andy Clark
Publisher: Oxford University Press, USA
ISBN: 0190217014
Category : Medical
Languages : en
Pages : 425

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Book Description
Exciting new theories in neuroscience, psychology, and artificial intelligence are revealing minds like ours as predictive minds, forever trying to guess the incoming streams of sensory stimulation before they arrive. In this up-to-the-minute treatment, philosopher and cognitive scientist Andy Clark explores new ways of thinking about perception, action, and the embodied mind.

Dropping In

Dropping In PDF Author: Shane Sebastian
Publisher: Higherlife Development Service
ISBN: 9781732502680
Category :
Languages : en
Pages : 0

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Book Description
Dropping In -Experience the Life You Were Meant to Live Do you live for thrill or for fear? If somewhere in the depth of your soul you long for more out of life than just playing it safe, getting by - existing, then this book is for you. Despite what you may think, this book is not about surfing, well not primarily. It's about living the kind of exhilarating, thrilling, almost too-good-to-be-believed kind of life that's actually possible. What surfing represents, and many surfers have experienced, is a feeling called "stoke." It's that happiness, that thrill and pure joy that comes when you catch and ride that perfect wave. Believe it or not, God intends for you to have this kind of life. And yet so often we settle for much less. Dropping In will help you open your heart, mind, and soul to the possibility of living differently. If standing on the shore of life has lost its appeal and you are ready to experience more, then you're ready to drop in and catch the wave of God's divine flow in your life that will keep you smiling!

Dawn Patrol

Dawn Patrol PDF Author: Don Winslow
Publisher: Vintage Crime/Black Lizard
ISBN: 0307793796
Category : Fiction
Languages : en
Pages : 322

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Book Description
From the bestselling author of Savages (now an Oliver Stone film). As cool as its California surfer heroes, Don Winslow delivers a high velocity, darkly comic, and totally righteous crime novel. Every morning Boone Daniels catches waves with the other members of The Dawn Patrol: four men and one woman as single-minded about surfing as he is. Or nearly. They have "real j-o-b-s"; Boone, however, works as a PI just enough to keep himself afloat. But Boone's most recent gig-investigating an insurance scam—has unexpectedly led him to a ghost from his past. And while he may have to miss the biggest swell of his surfing career, this job is about to give him a wilder ride than anything he's ever encountered. Filled with killer waves and a coast line to break your heart, The Dawn Patrol will leave you gasping for air.

All for a Few Perfect Waves

All for a Few Perfect Waves PDF Author: David Rensin
Publisher: Harper Collins
ISBN: 0061868167
Category : Biography & Autobiography
Languages : en
Pages : 826

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Book Description
For twenty years, Miki "Da Cat" Dora was the king of Malibu surfers—a dashing, enigmatic rebel who dominated the waves, ruled his peers' imaginations, and who still inspires the fantasies of wannabes to this day. And yet, Dora railed against surfing's sudden post-Gidget popularity and the overcrowding of his once empty waves, even after this avid sportsman, iconoclast, and scammer of wide repute ran afoul of the law and led the FBI on a remarkable seven-year chase around the globe in 1974. The New York Times named him "the most renegade spirit the sport has yet to produce" and Vanity Fair called him "a dark prince of the beach." To fully capture Dora's never-before-told story, David Rensin spent four years interviewing hundreds of Dora's friends, enemies, family members, lovers, and fellow surfers to uncover the untold truth about surfing's most outrageous practitioner, charismatic antihero, committed loner, and enduring mystery.

The Wave

The Wave PDF Author: Susan Casey
Publisher: Anchor Canada
ISBN: 0385666683
Category : Science
Languages : en
Pages : 434

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Book Description
A riveting and rollicking tour-de-force about the terrifying power of nature's most deadly phenomena — colossal waves — and the scientists and super surfers who are obsessed with them. The New York Times bestselling author of The Devil's Teeth probes the dramatic convergence of baffling gargantuan waves that pummel oil rigs and sink massive ships, the extreme surfers willing to stare down death in order to ride them, and the marine scientists trying to unlock the physics of these waves, the climate changes that are provoking them, and what chaos they might wreak. Susan Casey explores the phenomenon of monster waves and how they have become an obsession for extreme surfers like Laird Hamilton — who serves as the author's guide as she takes the reader into the intense, white-knuckle world of 100-foot waves.

Surf Tribe

Surf Tribe PDF Author: Stephan Vanfleteren
Publisher:
ISBN: 9789492677365
Category : Black-and-white photography
Languages : en
Pages : 0

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Book Description
- An incomparable new photo book about the international surf culture by Stephan Vanfleteren- Showcases captivating portraits of some of the world's surf iconsWith Surf Tribe, photographer Stephan Vanfleteren shows that there is far more to surf culture than just sport and competition. Surfing is also about a deep admiration and respect for the ocean, as well as the feeling of insignificance when confronted with the forces of nature. Surfers use the waves for fun, but also to forget and to battle, both with others and with themselves. Vanfleteren looks beyond the traditional borders of the United States and Australia and searches the globe for people who live in places where sea and land meet. He documents a fluid community, with nature as its sole leader. He has sought out young talent, living icons, and old legends, both competitive and free surfers. The photographs here are serene black and white portraits in Vanfleteren's well-known, haunting style; as always, he reaches below the surface and goes to the core of his subjects. Included, amongst many others, are Kelly Slater, Gerry Lopez, John Florence, Mickey Munoz, Filipe Toledo and Stephanie Gilmore. Surfer, journalist, and actor Gerry Lopez has contributed the Foreword. Surf Tribe has been exhibited in Knokke-Heist (Belgium), Kunsthal Rotterdam (Netherlands), Gallery Kahmann Amsterdam (Netherlands). The next exhibition will be in June 2019 in France. If you are interested in the stories behind the book, go to: www.surftribe.be

Let My People Go Surfing

Let My People Go Surfing PDF Author: Yvon Chouinard
Publisher: Penguin
ISBN: 1101992530
Category : Business & Economics
Languages : en
Pages : 274

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Book Description
"Wonderful . . . a moving autobiography, the story of a unique business, and a detailed blueprint for hope." —Jared Diamond, Pulitzer Prize-winning author of Guns, Germs, and Steel In this 10th anniversary edition, Yvon Chouinard—legendary climber, businessman, environmentalist, and founder of Patagonia, Inc.—shares the persistence and courage that have gone into being head of one of the most respected and environmentally responsible companies on earth. From his youth as the son of a French Canadian handyman to the thrilling, ambitious climbing expeditions that inspired his innovative designs for the sport's equipment, Let My People Go Surfing is the story of a man who brought doing good and having grand adventures into the heart of his business life-a book that will deeply affect entrepreneurs and outdoor enthusiasts alike.