Computer Prediction of Nearshore and Surf Zone Statistics

Computer Prediction of Nearshore and Surf Zone Statistics PDF Author: Choule J. Sonu
Publisher:
ISBN:
Category : Wave-motion, Theory of
Languages : en
Pages : 152

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Book Description
For the purpose of aiding in the strategic planning of naval inshore warfare operations, a study has been performed to develop prediction technology for shallow water waves, breakers, and longshore current velocities, using the visually observed deep water wave statistics as input. Computer programs, code-named 'BREAKM' and 'STATBR, ' and various nomographs have been developed to permit predictions for both physical magnitude and long-term statistics. Information display formats have been developed with a view to permitting speedy review of various key physical parameters and comparison between adjacent regions. Predicted results compare reasonably well with visually observed nearshore data, provided that a tolerable amount of discrepancy exists due partly to local conditions not accounted for in our prediction, partly to the built-in safety margin in our prediction, and partly to the limitations inherent to the state of the art. (Author).

Miscellaneous Report - Coastal Engineering Research Center

Miscellaneous Report - Coastal Engineering Research Center PDF Author: Coastal Engineering Research Center (U.S.)
Publisher:
ISBN:
Category : Coasts
Languages : en
Pages : 754

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Scientific and Technical Aerospace Reports

Scientific and Technical Aerospace Reports PDF Author:
Publisher:
ISBN:
Category : Aeronautics
Languages : en
Pages : 994

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Surf Zone Currents

Surf Zone Currents PDF Author:
Publisher:
ISBN:
Category : Coastal engineering
Languages : en
Pages : 102

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Selected Water Resources Abstracts

Selected Water Resources Abstracts PDF Author:
Publisher:
ISBN:
Category : Hydrology
Languages : en
Pages : 566

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Miscellaneous Report

Miscellaneous Report PDF Author: Coastal Engineering Research Center (U.S.)
Publisher:
ISBN:
Category : Coasts
Languages : en
Pages : 508

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Bed Shear Stress Coefficient Within the Surf Zone

Bed Shear Stress Coefficient Within the Surf Zone PDF Author: Carlos Severino Veitia Garcia
Publisher:
ISBN:
Category : Ocean waves
Languages : en
Pages : 122

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Book Description
An analytical formulation of the bed shear stress coefficient inside the surf zone is derived using the concept of radiation stress. A truncated Rayleigh p.d.f. is used to describe the wave field inside the surf zone and provides the input to calculate the variation of wave energy and longshore current as a function of wave height, water depth and distance to shore. The wave set-up is approximated using a sinusoidal wave solution. Field measurements of longshore current and waves within the surf zone are used to calculate the bed shear stress coefficient. Frequency distributions and statistics are calculated for the bed shear stress coefficient.

Selected Water Resources Abstracts

Selected Water Resources Abstracts PDF Author:
Publisher:
ISBN:
Category : Hydrology
Languages : en
Pages : 758

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Computer Prediction of Nearshore and Surf Zone Statistics

Computer Prediction of Nearshore and Surf Zone Statistics PDF Author: Choule J. Sonu
Publisher:
ISBN:
Category : Wave-motion, Theory of
Languages : en
Pages : 152

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Book Description
For the purpose of aiding in the strategic planning of naval inshore warfare operations, a study has been performed to develop prediction technology for shallow water waves, breakers, and longshore current velocities, using the visually observed deep water wave statistics as input. Computer programs, code-named 'BREAKM' and 'STATBR, ' and various nomographs have been developed to permit predictions for both physical magnitude and long-term statistics. Information display formats have been developed with a view to permitting speedy review of various key physical parameters and comparison between adjacent regions. Predicted results compare reasonably well with visually observed nearshore data, provided that a tolerable amount of discrepancy exists due partly to local conditions not accounted for in our prediction, partly to the built-in safety margin in our prediction, and partly to the limitations inherent to the state of the art. (Author).

Wind and Wave Forcing of Longshore Currents Across a Barred Beach

Wind and Wave Forcing of Longshore Currents Across a Barred Beach PDF Author: Dennis James Whitford
Publisher:
ISBN:
Category : Banks (Oceanography)
Languages : en
Pages : 238

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Book Description
Previous investigations of longshore currents have included simplifying assumptions and restriction (such as a planar beach, a steady and depth uniform flow, spatially-variant bed shear stress and turbulent momentum exchange, and the exclusion of surface wind stress. These assumptions are quantitatively investigated by calculating the relative importance of each term in the longshore momentum balance with an emphasis on the relative importance of wind forcing across the barred nearshore. Wind and wave forcing of longshore currents across a barred beach are examined using both a numerical model and field measurements. A local momentum balance was measured at various locations across the surf zone during the SUPERDUCK experiment held at the USACE CERC Field Research Facility, Duck, N.C. in October 1986. A moveable sled was instrumented with pressure, current, and wind sensors to measure the various terms in the longshore momentum equation. Stability-dependent atmospheric drag coefficients for the surf zone are determined from wind stress measurements acquired just beyond the surf zone and wind speed measurements acquired from an anemometer atop the 9 m sled mast. Breaking waves were visually identified and electronically marked on the data tapes. Keywords: Ocean currents; Air water interactions; Nearshore surf zone; Wind stress; Theses. (EDC).

Surf Zone Currents: Annotated bibliography

Surf Zone Currents: Annotated bibliography PDF Author: David R. Basco
Publisher:
ISBN:
Category : Coastal engineering
Languages : en
Pages : 104

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Book Description