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Author: Ulla E. B. Machado
Publisher:
ISBN:
Category :
Languages : en
Pages : 25
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Book Description
Author: Ulla E. B. Machado
Publisher:
ISBN:
Category :
Languages : en
Pages : 25
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Book Description
Author: Alok K. Jha
Publisher:
ISBN:
Category :
Languages : en
Pages : 88
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Book Description
Second-order nonlinear models have been increasingly used in recent years model nonlinear processes in offshore engineering. We develop convenient analytic formulae to predict the nonlinearities in waves and to predict the crest height distribution in a specified wave condition. We apply such models to study the properties of random ocean waves. These include measured waves both in wave tanks and in field. Statistics comparison between model and measurements include: moment comparisons, comparison of distributions of wave elevations, crest heights, wave heights, and conditional distributions of local wave parameters, for example, crest height given wave heights, wave periods given crest heights, among others. We find the second-order model predictions to agree quite closely with the field measurements, while the wave tank statistics seem to be underpredicted by the second-order model. Finally, we solve the inverse problem, in which we identify the underlying first-order wave components, which when run through the second-order wave predictor matches the measured wave histories time point by time point.
Author: Efim Pelinovsky
Publisher: Springer
ISBN: 3319215752
Category : Science
Languages : en
Pages : 242
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Book Description
This revised and updated second edition details the vast progress that has been achieved in the understanding of the physical mechanisms of rogue wave phenomenon in recent years. The selected articles address such issues as the formation of rogue waves due to modulational instability of nonlinear wave field, physical and statistical properties of extreme ocean wave generation in deep water as well as in shallow water, various models of nonlinear water waves, special analysis of nonlinear resonances between water waves and the relation between in situ observations, experimental data and rogue wave theories. In addition, recent results on tsunami waves due to subaerial landslides are presented. This book is written for specialists in the fields of fluid mechanics, applied mathematics, nonlinear physics, physical oceanography and geophysics, and for students learning these subjects.
Author: Robert Turner Hudspeth
Publisher: Palala Press
ISBN: 9781378152072
Category : History
Languages : en
Pages : 180
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Book Description
This work has been selected by scholars as being culturally important, and is part of the knowledge base of civilization as we know it. This work was reproduced from the original artifact, and remains as true to the original work as possible. Therefore, you will see the original copyright references, library stamps (as most of these works have been housed in our most important libraries around the world), and other notations in the work. This work is in the public domain in the United States of America, and possibly other nations. Within the United States, you may freely copy and distribute this work, as no entity (individual or corporate) has a copyright on the body of the work. As a reproduction of a historical artifact, this work may contain missing or blurred pages, poor pictures, errant marks, etc. Scholars believe, and we concur, that this work is important enough to be preserved, reproduced, and made generally available to the public. We appreciate your support of the preservation process, and thank you for being an important part of keeping this knowledge alive and relevant.
Author: G.L. Geernaert
Publisher: Springer Science & Business Media
ISBN: 9400920695
Category : Technology & Engineering
Languages : en
Pages : 344
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Book Description
During the Conference on Air-Sea Interaction in January 1986, it was suggested to me by David Larner of Reidel Press that it may be timely for an updated compendium of air-sea interaction theory to be organized, developed, and published. Many new results were emerging at the time, i.e., results from the MARSEN, MASEX, MILDEX, and TOWARD field projects (among others) were in the process of being reported and/or published. Further, a series of new experiments such as FASINEX and HEXOS were soon to be conducted in which new strides in our knowledge of air-sea fluxes would be made. During the year following the discussions with David Larner, it became apparent that many of the advances in air-sea interaction theory during the 1970s and 1980s were associated with sponsor investments in satellite oceanography and, in particular, remote sensing research. Since ocean surface remote sensing, e.g., scatterometry and SAR, requires intimate knowledge of ocean surface dynamics, advances in remote sensing capabilities required coordinated research in air-sea fluxes, wave state, scattering theory, sensor design, and data exploitation using environmental models. Based on this interplay of disciplines, it was decided that this book be devoted to air sea interaction and remote sensing as multi-disciplinary activities.
Author: Alfred Osborne
Publisher: Academic Press
ISBN: 0080925103
Category : Science
Languages : en
Pages : 977
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Book Description
For more than 200 years, the Fourier Transform has been one of the most important mathematical tools for understanding the dynamics of linear wave trains. Nonlinear Ocean Waves and the Inverse Scattering Transform presents the development of the nonlinear Fourier analysis of measured space and time series, which can be found in a wide variety of physical settings including surface water waves, internal waves, and equatorial Rossby waves. This revolutionary development will allow hyperfast numerical modelling of nonlinear waves, greatly advancing our understanding of oceanic surface and internal waves. Nonlinear Fourier analysis is based upon a generalization of linear Fourier analysis referred to as the inverse scattering transform, the fundamental building block of which is a generalized Fourier series called the Riemann theta function. Elucidating the art and science of implementing these functions in the context of physical and time series analysis is the goal of this book. Presents techniques and methods of the inverse scattering transform for data analysis Geared toward both the introductory and advanced reader venturing further into mathematical and numerical analysis Suitable for classroom teaching as well as research
Author: Christian Kharif
Publisher: Springer Science & Business Media
ISBN: 354088419X
Category : Science
Languages : en
Pages : 222
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Book Description
“It came from nowhere, snapping giant ships in two. No one believed the survivors . . . until now” —New Scientist magazine cover, June 30, 2001 Rogue waves are the focus of this book. They are among the waves naturally - served by people on the sea surface that represent an inseparable feature of the Ocean. Rogue waves appear from nowhere, cause danger, and disappear at once. They may occur on the surface of a relatively calm sea and not reach very high amplitudes, but still be fatal for ships and crew due to their unexpectedness and abnormal features. Seamen are known to be unsurpassed authors of exciting and horrifying stories about the sea and sea waves. This could explain why, despite the increasing number of documented cases, that sailors’ observations of “walls of - ter” have been considered ctitious for a while. These stories are now addressed again due to the amount of doubtless evidence of the existence of the phenomenon, but still without suf cient information to - able interested researchers and engineers to completely understand it. The billows appear suddenly, exceeding the surrounding waves by two times their size and more, and obtaining many names: abnormal, exceptional, extreme, giant, huge, s- den, episodic, freak, monster, rogue, vicious, killer, mad- or rabid-dog waves, cape rollers, holes in the sea, walls of water, three sisters, etc.
Author: Stanislaw Ryszard Massel
Publisher: World Scientific
ISBN: 9813228393
Category : Technology & Engineering
Languages : en
Pages : 801
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Book Description
This book is an extended and substantially updated edition of the previous book editions published in 1996 and 2013 under the same title. The 3rd edition is a one-volume, modern and comprehensive overview of the current knowledge of regular and random ocean surface waves in deep waters and in coastal zones.Since the previous editions many new theoretical advances have been made in the physical understanding and analytical and numerical treatment of various ocean wave problems. The revisions and supplements demanded by these advances have been substantial, therefore the scope of the book has been extended by adding a new chapter and substantially supplementing others.All chapters of the book have been rewritten to include and describe in detail many new discoveries made since the completion of the previous editions. In this 3rd edition a comprehensive and updated overview of the fundamentals of the regular wave mechanics, as well as the spectral and statistical properties of random waves are given. Except for the updated chapters dedicated to tsunami and extreme waves, a new chapter dealing with other types of impulsive waves starting from rest, are also included.The air-sea interaction processes as well as the last improvements in ocean wave modelling and presently available wave prediction models (WAM, WAVEWATCH III, UMWM, NEMO) are thoroughly discussed and their applications are demonstrated. The review of the present ocean observation methods encompasses the modern sea-truthing, as well as applications of data from presently operating marine satellites.In this revised edition, chapters on the behavior of surface waves in the vegetated environments such as coral reef, mangrove forest, seaweed and seagrass areas are substantially extended and updated to include the last discoveries.The explanations in the book are self-contained and detailed enough to capture the interest of the potential readers and to prompt them to explore the research literature. The list of rapidly growing number of the recent papers on the ocean waves has been extended substantially, up to about 900 titles.
Author: Yoshimi Goda
Publisher: World Scientific
ISBN: 9814282391
Category : Technology & Engineering
Languages : en
Pages : 733
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Book Description
Random waves are the most important constituent of the sea environment, as they make the design of maritime structures quite different from that of structures on land. In this book, the concept of random waves for the design of breakwaters, seawalls, and harbor structures is fully explored for easy comprehension by practicing engineers. Theoretical aspects are also discussed in detail for further studies by graduate students and researchers.
Author: Stanislaw Ryszard Massel
Publisher: World Scientific
ISBN: 9814502286
Category : Technology & Engineering
Languages : en
Pages : 509
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Book Description
New Edition: Ocean Surface Waves: Their Physics and Prediction (3rd Edition)This book is intended as a handbook for professionals and researchers in the areas of Physical Oceanography, Ocean and Coastal Engineering and as a text for graduate students in these fields.It presents a comprehensive study on surface ocean waves induced by wind, including basic mathematical principles, physical description of the observed phenomena, practical forecasting techniques of various wave parameters and applications in ocean and coastal engineering, all from the probabilistic and spectral points of view.The book commences with a description of mechanisms of surface wave generation by wind and its modern modeling techniques. The stochastic and probabilistic terminology is introduced and the basic statistical and spectral properties of ocean waves are developed and discussed in detail.The bulk of material deals with the prediction techniques for waves in deep and coastal waters for simple and complex ocean basins and complex bathymetry. The various prediction methods, currently used in oceanography and ocean engineering, are described and the examples of practical calculations illustrate the basic text.An appendix provides a description of the modern methods of wave measurement, including the remote sensing techniques. Also the wave simulation methods and random data analysis techniques are discussed. In the book a lot of discoveries of the Russian and East European scientists, largely unknown in the Western literature due to the language barrier, are referred to.
