Prediction of Ocean Waves in Shallow Water PDF Download
Are you looking for read ebook online? Search for your book and save it on your Kindle device, PC, phones or tablets. Download Prediction of Ocean Waves in Shallow Water PDF full book. Access full book title Prediction of Ocean Waves in Shallow Water by J. Piorewicz. Download full books in PDF and EPUB format.
Author: J. Piorewicz
Publisher:
ISBN: 9781876674212
Category : Ocean waves
Languages : en
Pages : 66
Get Book Here
Book Description
"There are a few empirical models that predict wave parameters in shallow waters. This report compares two empirical models : Shore Protection Manual model (SPM, 1984) modified later by Hurdle and Strive (1989); and Krylov model (described in Massel, 1996) with field data recorded with Datawell waverider buoy, installed at the depth of 22 m LAT, on the edge of Keppel Bay (Central Queensland, Australia). Four years of recorded data was analysed. Approximately 430 wave conditions covering the range of significant wave data from 0.5 m to 3.5 m; and peak period from 3 to 13 s, with duration of over 9 hrs in each case was selected for detailed analysis. Not far from the wave-recording buoy is a weather station located on Rundle Island where wind conditions have been recorded automatically every 3 hours. Analysis has shown that both models significantly overestimate predicted wave heights and periods compared with recorded ones. Vincent and Hughes (1985) formula for significant wave height in the depth-control wave train, when modified by the author by including dispersion of waves, represents recorded data very accurately. In addition waves with long periods (>9 sec), considered as swell waves were analysed to evaluate predominant swell direction. The proper knowledge of dominant swell waves' direction is important in consideration of coastline realignment as a sustainable "soft" method of beach stabilization."--p. i.
Author: J. Piorewicz
Publisher:
ISBN: 9781876674212
Category : Ocean waves
Languages : en
Pages : 66
Get Book Here
Book Description
"There are a few empirical models that predict wave parameters in shallow waters. This report compares two empirical models : Shore Protection Manual model (SPM, 1984) modified later by Hurdle and Strive (1989); and Krylov model (described in Massel, 1996) with field data recorded with Datawell waverider buoy, installed at the depth of 22 m LAT, on the edge of Keppel Bay (Central Queensland, Australia). Four years of recorded data was analysed. Approximately 430 wave conditions covering the range of significant wave data from 0.5 m to 3.5 m; and peak period from 3 to 13 s, with duration of over 9 hrs in each case was selected for detailed analysis. Not far from the wave-recording buoy is a weather station located on Rundle Island where wind conditions have been recorded automatically every 3 hours. Analysis has shown that both models significantly overestimate predicted wave heights and periods compared with recorded ones. Vincent and Hughes (1985) formula for significant wave height in the depth-control wave train, when modified by the author by including dispersion of waves, represents recorded data very accurately. In addition waves with long periods (>9 sec), considered as swell waves were analysed to evaluate predominant swell direction. The proper knowledge of dominant swell waves' direction is important in consideration of coastline realignment as a sustainable "soft" method of beach stabilization."--p. i.
Author: Willard J Pierson
Publisher:
ISBN:
Category : Hydrology
Languages : en
Pages : 312
Get Book Here
Book Description
Author: Stanislaw Ryszard Massel
Publisher: World Scientific
ISBN: 9814460133
Category : Technology & Engineering
Languages : en
Pages : 690
Get Book Here
Book Description
New Edition: Ocean Surface Waves: Their Physics and Prediction (3rd Edition)The book is an extended and updated edition of the book published in 1996 under the same title (World Scientific, ISBN 9810216866). It contains a very comprehensive and extensive study on surface ocean waves induced by wind, earthquakes and possible landslides and asteroids impacts. The basic mathematical principles, physical description of the observed phenomena, practical forecasting techniques of the various wave parameters and extended application in ocean and coastal engineering, are discussed from the stochastic point of view.All chapters were completely rewritten and supplemented with many new discoveries which were published since the first edition in 1996. In particular, new chapters are added on very interesting and contemporary topics such as: wave breaking mechanisms in deep- and shallow water, freak waves, tsunami, water circulation in porous sea bottom induced by surface waves, and waves propagation through mangrove forests.In terms of numerical modeling, the state of the art of the modern methodology of wave prediction models WAM and SWAN, as well as of the high sophisticated satellite methods of waves measurement and modern methods of signal processing, including wavelets approach and Hilbert Transform approach are presented. The book is supplemented with an extended list of relevant and extended, contemporary bibliography, subject index and author index.
Author: Stanislaw R. Massel
Publisher: World Scientific
ISBN: 9789810221096
Category : Science
Languages : en
Pages : 514
Get Book Here
Book Description
This book is intended as a handbook for professionals and researchers in the areas of Physical Oceanography, Ocean and Coastal Engineering and as a text for graduate students in these fields. It presents a comprehensive study on surface ocean waves induced by wind, including basic mathematical principles, physical description of the observed phenomena, practical forecasting techniques of various wave parameters and applications in ocean and coastal engineering, all from the probabilistic and spectral points of view. The book commences with a description of mechanisms of surface wave generation by wind and its modern modeling techniques. The stochastic and probabilistic terminology is introduced and the basic statistical and spectral properties of ocean waves are developed and discussed in detail. The bulk of material deals with the prediction techniques for waves in deep and coastal waters for simple and complex ocean basins and complex bathymetry. The various prediction methods, currently used in oceanography and ocean engineering, are described and the examples of practical calculations illustrate the basic text. An appendix provides a description of the modern methods of wave measurement, including the remote sensing techniques. Also the wave simulation methods and random data analysis techniques are discussed. In the book a lot of discoveries of the Russian and East European scientists, largely unknown in the Western literature due to the language barrier, are referred to.
Author: Stanislaw Ryszard Massel
Publisher: World Scientific
ISBN: 9813228393
Category : Technology & Engineering
Languages : en
Pages : 801
Get Book Here
Book Description
This book is an extended and substantially updated edition of the previous book editions published in 1996 and 2013 under the same title. The 3rd edition is a one-volume, modern and comprehensive overview of the current knowledge of regular and random ocean surface waves in deep waters and in coastal zones.Since the previous editions many new theoretical advances have been made in the physical understanding and analytical and numerical treatment of various ocean wave problems. The revisions and supplements demanded by these advances have been substantial, therefore the scope of the book has been extended by adding a new chapter and substantially supplementing others.All chapters of the book have been rewritten to include and describe in detail many new discoveries made since the completion of the previous editions. In this 3rd edition a comprehensive and updated overview of the fundamentals of the regular wave mechanics, as well as the spectral and statistical properties of random waves are given. Except for the updated chapters dedicated to tsunami and extreme waves, a new chapter dealing with other types of impulsive waves starting from rest, are also included.The air-sea interaction processes as well as the last improvements in ocean wave modelling and presently available wave prediction models (WAM, WAVEWATCH III, UMWM, NEMO) are thoroughly discussed and their applications are demonstrated. The review of the present ocean observation methods encompasses the modern sea-truthing, as well as applications of data from presently operating marine satellites.In this revised edition, chapters on the behavior of surface waves in the vegetated environments such as coral reef, mangrove forest, seaweed and seagrass areas are substantially extended and updated to include the last discoveries.The explanations in the book are self-contained and detailed enough to capture the interest of the potential readers and to prompt them to explore the research literature. The list of rapidly growing number of the recent papers on the ocean waves has been extended substantially, up to about 900 titles.
Author: Edward F. Thompson
Publisher:
ISBN:
Category : Wind waves
Languages : en
Pages : 28
Get Book Here
Book Description
Author: Madhav L. Khandekar
Publisher: Springer Science & Business Media
ISBN: 1461389526
Category : Science
Languages : en
Pages : 223
Get Book Here
Book Description
This monograph is an attempt to compile the present state of knowledge on ocean wave analysis and prediction. The emphasis of the monograph is on the development of ocean wave analysis and predic tion procedures and their utility for real-time operations and appli cations. Most of the material in the monograph is derived from journal articles, research reports and recent conference proceedings; some of the basic material is extracted from standard text books on physical oceanography and wind waves. Ocean wave analysis and prediction is becoming an important activity in the meteorological and oceanographic services of many countries. The present status of ocean wave prediction may be compar able to the status of numerical weather prediction of the mid-sixties and early seventies when a number of weather prediction models were developed for research purposes, many of which were later put into operational use by meteorological services of several countries. The increased emphasis on sea-state analysis and prediction has created a need for a ready reference material on various ocean wave analysis and modelling techniques and their utility. The present monograph is aimed at fulfilling this need. The monograph should prove useful to the ocean wave modelling community as well as to marine forecasters, coastal engineers and offshore technologists. The monograph could also be used for a senior undergraduate (or a first year graduate) level course in ocean wave modelling and marine meteorology.
Author: Edward F. Thompson
Publisher:
ISBN:
Category :
Languages : en
Pages :
Get Book Here
Book Description
Author: Stanislaw Ryszard Massel
Publisher: World Scientific
ISBN: 9814502286
Category : Technology & Engineering
Languages : en
Pages : 509
Get Book Here
Book Description
New Edition: Ocean Surface Waves: Their Physics and Prediction (3rd Edition)This book is intended as a handbook for professionals and researchers in the areas of Physical Oceanography, Ocean and Coastal Engineering and as a text for graduate students in these fields.It presents a comprehensive study on surface ocean waves induced by wind, including basic mathematical principles, physical description of the observed phenomena, practical forecasting techniques of various wave parameters and applications in ocean and coastal engineering, all from the probabilistic and spectral points of view.The book commences with a description of mechanisms of surface wave generation by wind and its modern modeling techniques. The stochastic and probabilistic terminology is introduced and the basic statistical and spectral properties of ocean waves are developed and discussed in detail.The bulk of material deals with the prediction techniques for waves in deep and coastal waters for simple and complex ocean basins and complex bathymetry. The various prediction methods, currently used in oceanography and ocean engineering, are described and the examples of practical calculations illustrate the basic text.An appendix provides a description of the modern methods of wave measurement, including the remote sensing techniques. Also the wave simulation methods and random data analysis techniques are discussed. In the book a lot of discoveries of the Russian and East European scientists, largely unknown in the Western literature due to the language barrier, are referred to.
Author: Charles L. Bretschneider
Publisher:
ISBN:
Category : Ocean waves
Languages : en
Pages : 40
Get Book Here
Book Description
