ACT - Adjunct Compensatory Training for Rock Climbers PDF Download
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Author: Volker Schöffl
Publisher: Tredition Gmbh
ISBN: 9783347029347
Category : Games & Activities
Languages : en
Pages : 94
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Book Description
ACT - Adjunct compensatory Training for rock climbers: climbers' compensation training with a medical foundation Adjunct compensatory Training focuses on training the neglected muscle slings and innervation patterns within their specific range of motion, building up posture and core strength as well as balancing the athletic build of the body. The ACT concept was inspired by our long-time cooperation with high-level athletes. We combine our sports-medical and trainings-methodical knowledge to effectively prevent injuries and overstrain. Volker Schöffl, as the MD in the group, analyses the body from a sports-medical and biomechanical point of view. With his vast knowledge of climbing injuries (Volker Schöffl, Thomas Hochholzer, Sam Lightner Jr. "One Move Too Many") and as a highly active avid climber, he understands why certain conditions could and do lead to injuries in the long-term. Dicki and Patrick are world-renowned climbing trainers and coaches. Coming from a top-level climbing background themselves, they focus on climbing-specific training ("Gimme Kraft", "Kraftfactory") and biomechanical analysis of climbing. Weaknesses in certain climbers which can be reduced through specific and adjunct training are frequently revealed by the biomechanical aspects. Combining our two fields of expertise, we have collaborated to create Adjunct compensatory Training, which aims to rebuild neglected range of motion in muscle slings and to improve neuromuscular innervation patterns. Thus, it will help you to better withstand specific climbing training and reduce injury and the risk of overexertion. The ACT concept was born in 2015 and has been consistently developed further within our group since then. In our daily work with both elite athletes and "normal" climbers, we perpetually evaluated, restructured and remodelled our exercises, structuring and fine-tuning a program which we find most effective.
Author: Volker Schöffl
Publisher: Tredition Gmbh
ISBN: 9783347029347
Category : Games & Activities
Languages : en
Pages : 94
Get Book Here
Book Description
ACT - Adjunct compensatory Training for rock climbers: climbers' compensation training with a medical foundation Adjunct compensatory Training focuses on training the neglected muscle slings and innervation patterns within their specific range of motion, building up posture and core strength as well as balancing the athletic build of the body. The ACT concept was inspired by our long-time cooperation with high-level athletes. We combine our sports-medical and trainings-methodical knowledge to effectively prevent injuries and overstrain. Volker Schöffl, as the MD in the group, analyses the body from a sports-medical and biomechanical point of view. With his vast knowledge of climbing injuries (Volker Schöffl, Thomas Hochholzer, Sam Lightner Jr. "One Move Too Many") and as a highly active avid climber, he understands why certain conditions could and do lead to injuries in the long-term. Dicki and Patrick are world-renowned climbing trainers and coaches. Coming from a top-level climbing background themselves, they focus on climbing-specific training ("Gimme Kraft", "Kraftfactory") and biomechanical analysis of climbing. Weaknesses in certain climbers which can be reduced through specific and adjunct training are frequently revealed by the biomechanical aspects. Combining our two fields of expertise, we have collaborated to create Adjunct compensatory Training, which aims to rebuild neglected range of motion in muscle slings and to improve neuromuscular innervation patterns. Thus, it will help you to better withstand specific climbing training and reduce injury and the risk of overexertion. The ACT concept was born in 2015 and has been consistently developed further within our group since then. In our daily work with both elite athletes and "normal" climbers, we perpetually evaluated, restructured and remodelled our exercises, structuring and fine-tuning a program which we find most effective.
Author: Volker Schöffl
Publisher: Springer Nature
ISBN: 3030721841
Category : Medical
Languages : en
Pages : 319
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Book Description
This book comprehensively discusses the medical aspects of sports climbing, a still young but emerging sport, which will be one of the disciplines at the Tokyo Olympics. Its rapid development from niche to popular sport has been accompanied by an increase in the number of climbing-sports-specific injuries and has attracted growing interest within the sports medicine community. Gathering expertise from around the globe, the book covers all aspects related to this discipline – from physiology, biomechanics and anatomy through upper and lower extremity injuries to cardiology, gynecology, pediatric and adolescent conditions. Following a coherent structure, each chapter equips readers with evidence-based diagnostic and therapeutic guidelines. Enriched by a wealth of pictures, this manual offers a timely and up-to-date resource for sports physicians, orthopedic surgeons and traumatologists, as well as trainers, physiotherapists and other health professionals involved in climbing.
Author: Eric Horst
Publisher: Rowman & Littlefield
ISBN: 0762762659
Category : Sports & Recreation
Languages : en
Pages : 307
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Book Description
Drawing on new research in sports medicine, nutrition, and fitness, this book offers a training program to help any climber achieve superior performance and better mental concentration on the rock, with less risk of injury.
Author: Eric Horst
Publisher: Rowman & Littlefield
ISBN: 0762762640
Category : Sports & Recreation
Languages : en
Pages : 225
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Book Description
The only conditioning book a rock climber needs! Rock climbing is one of the most physically challenging sports, testing strength, endurance, flexibility, and stamina. Good climbers have to build and maintain each of these assets. This is the first-ever book to provide climbers of all ages and experience with the knowledge and tools to design and follow a comprehensive, personalized exercise program. Part One covers the basics of physical conditioning and goal-setting. Part Two takes readers through warm-up and flexibility routines, entry-level strength training, weight loss tips, and fifteen core-conditioning exercises. Part Three details climbing-specific conditioning, with twenty exercises to target specific muscles of the fingers, arms and upper torso to develop power and endurance. An entire chapter focuses on the antagonist muscle groups that help provide balance and stability, and prevent muscle injury. This section also has a chapter devoted to stamina conditioning, increasing the climber’s endurance at high altitudes. Part Four shows how to put together a customized training program to suit the climber’s needs. The book includes workout sheets for Beginner, Intermediate, and Advanced skill levels, tips for children and those over age fifty, secrets of good nutrition and an insider’s take on avoiding injuries. Eric Hörst is a performance coach who has helped thousands of climbers. His published works include Learning to Climb Indoors, Training for Climbing, and How to Climb 5.12. He lives in Lancaster, Pennsylvania.
Author: Eric J. Hörst
Publisher: Falcon Guides
ISBN: 9780762723133
Category : Rock climbing
Languages : en
Pages : 0
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Book Description
This is the completely revised and updated edition ofFlash Training, the fundamental manual for physical and mental training for rock climbers. Drawing on new research in sports medicine, nutrition, and fitness, the author has created a training program to help any climber achieve superior performance and better mental concentration on the rock, with less risk of injury. A necessary book for rock climbers everywhere.
Author: Alexa Wesselhoff
Publisher:
ISBN:
Category : Acceptance and commitment therapy
Languages : en
Pages : 106
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Book Description
Rock climbing has been growing increasingly popular in the United States and around the world. Rock climbers frequently climb in the presence of fear and anxiety. Often climbers make mistakes while climbing that increase the potential for accidents and injuries. One area in which behavioral interventions have targeted sports performance is through the use of acceptance and commit training methods. Research has suggested that components of ACT may improve athletic performance such as present moment awareness, values clarification, and acceptance of challenging thoughts while performing. Studies have looked at the effects of training athletes within various sports such as basketball, powerlifting, swimming and golfing. Common skills that have been targeted include flow, attention to task, and goals/values identification. At this time, there has not been any research examining the impact of ACT on rock climbing performance. The current study examined the effects of ACT on rock climbing performance in two participants who frequently engaged in recreational rock climbing in a multiple baseline design across participants. Participants received ACT lessons prior to climbing and were assessed on falls and errors, speed, and heart rate. Results for both participants demonstrated improvements in decreasing falls and errors and increasing speed. There was no effect seen on heart rate. A second component of feedback on errors was added for participant one to further reduce errors.
Author: Eric Horst
Publisher: Rowman & Littlefield
ISBN: 1493017640
Category : Sports & Recreation
Languages : en
Pages : 257
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Book Description
The only conditioning book a rock climber needs! Rock climbing is one of the most physically challenging sports, testing strength, endurance, flexibility, and stamina. Good climbers have to build and maintain each of these assets. This revised and updated edition of the classic book, Conditioning for Climbers, provides climbers of all ages and experience with the knowledge and tools to design and follow a comprehensive, personalized exercise program.
Author: Joseph E. Taylor III
Publisher: Harvard University Press
ISBN: 0674058607
Category : Sports & Recreation
Languages : en
Pages : 379
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Book Description
Few things suggest rugged individualism as powerfully as the solitary mountaineer testing his or her mettle in the rough country. Yet the long history of wilderness sport complicates this image. In this surprising story of the premier rock-climbing venue in the United States, Pilgrims of the Vertical offers insight into the nature of wilderness adventure. From the founding era of mountain climbing in Victorian Europe to present-day climbing gyms, Pilgrims of the Vertical shows how ever-changing alignments of nature, technology, gender, sport, and consumer culture have shaped climbers’ relations to nature and to each other. Even in Yosemite Valley, a premier site for sporting and environmental culture since the 1800s, elite athletes cannot be entirely disentangled from the many men and women seeking recreation and camaraderie. Following these climbers through time, Joseph Taylor uncovers lessons about the relationship of individuals to groups, sport to society, and nature to culture. He also shows how social and historical contexts influenced adventurers’ choices and experiences, and why some became leading environmental activists—including John Muir, David Brower, and Yvon Chouinard. In a world in which wild nature is increasingly associated with play, and virtuous play with environmental values, Pilgrims of the Vertical explains when and how these ideas developed, and why they became intimately linked to consumerism.
Author: Dale Goddard
Publisher: Stackpole Books
ISBN: 9780811722193
Category : Sports & Recreation
Languages : en
Pages : 228
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Book Description
Handbook for experienced climbers covers all the physical and psychological aspects of climbing training.
Author: Clyde Soles
Publisher: The Mountaineers Books
ISBN: 9780898868982
Category : Sports & Recreation
Languages : en
Pages : 244
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Book Description
This book is for climbers of all ages, abilities, and interests who wish to improve their performance. Climbing: Training for Peak Performance carefully details the foundation and fundamentals of nutrition for mind and body, flexibility training, aerobic, and strength conditioning, and how to put it all together to help you perform better.
