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Author: Sam Bleakley
Publisher: Alison Hodge Publishers
ISBN: 9780906720806
Category : Sports & Recreation
Languages : en
Pages : 196
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Book Description
Professional longboarder Sam Bleakley details a decade of extreme global surf travel.
Author: Sam Bleakley
Publisher: Alison Hodge Publishers
ISBN: 9780906720806
Category : Sports & Recreation
Languages : en
Pages : 196
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Book Description
Professional longboarder Sam Bleakley details a decade of extreme global surf travel.
Author: Chas Smith
Publisher: Rare Bird Books, a Vireo Book
ISBN: 9781945572814
Category : Social Science
Languages : en
Pages : 256
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Book Description
"It's no surprise that surfers like to party. The 1960-70s image, bolstered by Tom Wolfe and 'Big Wednesday,' was one of mild outlaws - tanned boys who refused to grow up, spending their days drinking beer and smoking joints on the beach in between mindless hours in the water... Internally, though, surfing had moved on from booze and weed to its heart's true home, its soul's twin flame: cocaine. The rise of cocaine in American popular culture as the choice of rich, white elites was matched, then quadrupled, within surf culture. The parties got wilder, the nights stretched longer, the stories became more ridiculously unbelievable. And there has been no stopping, no dip in passion... 'Cocaine + Surfing' peels the curtains back on a hopped-up, sometimes sexy, sometimes-deadly relationship and uses cocaine as the vehicle to expose and explain the utterly absurd surf industry to outsiders."--Inside jacket flap.
Author: Andy Clark
Publisher: Oxford University Press, USA
ISBN: 0190217014
Category : Medical
Languages : en
Pages : 425
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Book Description
Exciting new theories in neuroscience, psychology, and artificial intelligence are revealing minds like ours as predictive minds, forever trying to guess the incoming streams of sensory stimulation before they arrive. In this up-to-the-minute treatment, philosopher and cognitive scientist Andy Clark explores new ways of thinking about perception, action, and the embodied mind.
Author: Sam Bleakley
Publisher: Leaping Hare Press
ISBN: 9781782403296
Category : Sports & Recreation
Languages : en
Pages : 0
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Book Description
Mindfulness and Surfing casts a fresh perspective on this popular sport, and explores how riding the waves can be the ultimate meditation. Engaging author Sam Bleakley takes us on a soulful journey across the tideline of his personal and philosophical travels. Through lunar cycles and river surfing to the Taoism of nature, he reveals an acute awareness of what the oceans can tell us about our place in the natural world. Meditating on one of natureâ??s greatest elements â?? its salty swells, flow and peaks â?? he shares life lessons in mindfulness that will be relished by surfer and non-surfer alike.
Author: Liz Clark
Publisher: Patagonia
ISBN: 9781938340543
Category : Biography & Autobiography
Languages : en
Pages : 320
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Book Description
Sailing Ten Years and 20,000 Miles In Search of Surf and Self
Author: William Finnegan
Publisher: Penguin
ISBN: 0143109391
Category : Biography & Autobiography
Languages : en
Pages : 466
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Book Description
**Winner of the 2016 Pulitzer Prize for Autobiography** Included in President Obama’s 2016 Summer Reading List “Without a doubt, the finest surf book I’ve ever read . . . ” —The New York Times Magazine Barbarian Days is William Finnegan’s memoir of an obsession, a complex enchantment. Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates, it is something else: a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a morally dangerous pastime, a way of life. Raised in California and Hawaii, Finnegan started surfing as a child. He has chased waves all over the world, wandering for years through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa. A bookish boy, and then an excessively adventurous young man, he went on to become a distinguished writer and war reporter. Barbarian Days takes us deep into unfamiliar worlds, some of them right under our noses—off the coasts of New York and San Francisco. It immerses the reader in the edgy camaraderie of close male friendships forged in challenging waves. Finnegan shares stories of life in a whites-only gang in a tough school in Honolulu. He shows us a world turned upside down for kids and adults alike by the social upheavals of the 1960s. He details the intricacies of famous waves and his own apprenticeships to them. Youthful folly—he drops LSD while riding huge Honolua Bay, on Maui—is served up with rueful humor. As Finnegan’s travels take him ever farther afield, he discovers the picturesque simplicity of a Samoan fishing village, dissects the sexual politics of Tongan interactions with Americans and Japanese, and navigates the Indonesian black market while nearly succumbing to malaria. Throughout, he surfs, carrying readers with him on rides of harrowing, unprecedented lucidity. Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, an intellectual autobiography, a social history, a literary road movie, and an extraordinary exploration of the gradual mastering of an exacting, little-understood art.
Author: Lonely Planet
Publisher: Lonely Planet
ISBN: 9781788686501
Category : Sports & Recreation
Languages : en
Pages : 0
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Book Description
Lonely Planet explores the world's most righteous spots for riding waves in Epic Surf Breaks, the latest addition to its popular Epic series. From Java's G-Land to Hawaii's North Shore and on to Bells Beach in Victoria, Australia, surfers of all levels are sure to be thrilled. With stunning photography and gripping first hand accounts, there's no denying this ride will be epic.
Author: Sam Bleakley
Publisher: Orca Publications
ISBN: 9780956789341
Category : Sports & Recreation
Languages : en
Pages : 0
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Book Description
The Longboard Travel Guide is the first surf guidebook written specifically for longboarders. Loaded with mouth-watering lineup photos, the book describes 100 of the best waves in the world for loggers and offers insider tips on how to ride them. From the Maldives to Australia's Gold Coast, from Costa Rica to Fiji, from Samoa to Sri Lanka, all the classic destinations are here. A smorgasbord of less-well known areas are also included for adventurous surfers who thirst for uncrowded waves. This book covers every aspect of surf travel for longboarders: where to go, where to stay, what gear to take, how to get in shape for your trip and how to stay healthy abroad. Longboarders of all ages and abilities will benefit from the practical advice offered by a writing team of seasoned travelers and pros. Whether you're thinking of doing a road trip in Australia, a coldwater exploration trip in Iceland, or a boat trip in Indonesia this books has plenty to soak on up. A selection of real-life traveller's tales illustrate the pleasure and pain experienced by loggers searching for the elusive perfect wave, and the joys and frustrations of life of on the road. The Longboard Travel Guide features more than 200 color photos by some of the best photographers in the business including Chris Burkard, Alan van Gysen, Simon Williams, Tim McKenna and John Callahan.This book also includes a comprehensive directory of travel resources where readers can find information about the best surf camps, travel agencies and operators around the world. Packed with sublime photos, up-to-date info and real-life traveller's tales, The Longboard Travel Guide is the essential handbook for all longboarders who yearn to find perfect waves.
Author: Bonnie Tsui
Publisher: Henry Holt and Company (BYR)
ISBN: 1250840430
Category : Juvenile Nonfiction
Languages : en
Pages : 19
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Book Description
This stunning nonfiction picture book tells the inspiring story of Sarah Gerhardt, one of the first female big-wave surfers. Have you ever seen a big wave? One that’s twenty, thirty, forty, even fifty feet tall? Here’s a better question: Would you ever surf a big wave? Sarah Gerhardt did—and this is her story. Sarah and the Big Wave, a tale of perseverance and indomitable spirit, is about the first woman to ride the waves at Mavericks, one of the biggest and most dangerous surf breaks in the world.
Author: Kirsty Eagar
Publisher: Penguin UK
ISBN: 0857965700
Category : Juvenile Fiction
Languages : en
Pages : 255
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Book Description
Award-winning novelby Kirsty Eagar, author of Saltwater Vampires and Night Beach. Raw Blue was awardedthe 2010 Victorian Premier's Literary Awards Young Adult Fiction prize. Readersof Tim Winton's Breathwill be drawn to Raw Blue, an achingly beautiful young adult novel set in Sydney's northern beaches.Winner of the 2010 Victorian Premier's Literary Awards, it is a haunting storyabout finding your passion in life. Carly has dropped out of uni to spend her days surfing and her nights working as a cook in a Manly cafe. Surfing is the one thing she loves doing ... and the only thing that helps her stop thinking about what happened two years ago. Then she meets Ryan and Carly has to decide.Will shelet the past bury her? Orcan shelet go of her anger and shame, and find the courage to be happy? Check out Kirsty Eagar'swebsite at www.kirstyeagar.com,and read herblogto find out about her thoughts on books, writing, music, surfing, and finding inspiration, or visit betweenthelines.com.au -the destination for Young Adult books. Praise for Raw Blue: 'Kirsty Eagar's fearless Raw Blue, a story of regeneration set on Sydney's northern beaches, is much more than just a promising debut: this one delivers.' Australian Book Review Best Books of 2009: Critics' Choices 'Kirsty Eagar's first novel explores dark territory with skill and sensitivity.' The Age 'An emotionally rich and powerful first novel.' Canberra Times 'If you only read one book this year ... it should be Kirsty Eagar's Raw Blue one of those kept-me-up-all-night novels that stays in your bones and sings in your ears long after you've finished it. It wouldn't be out of place next to Tim Winton's Breath, except this is the ocean as healer, not as an object to be conquered, or the site of self-destruction, of risk. The images crackle, the lines are full of the poetry of observation, the story is searing, gutting, beautiful. This should be compulsory reading for all teenagers especially boys.' julialawrinson.livejournal.com 'This is a psychologically intense novel that involves even non-surfing readers in the release Carly feels when conquering the waves we empathise with her in the long battle between desire and fear on the path to self-acceptance.' Magpies 'I read this book feverishly, desperate for a happy ending, and afterwards found it difficult to get Carly and the men who ride into her life out of my mind.' Newcastle Herald '[a] very moving book It's dark subject matter, but Eagar makes it uplifting.' Sunday Territorian 'A memorable first book by a writer who gives an honest approach to what young adults face growing up and growing wiser.' Woman's Day Read of the Week
