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Author: Jean-Etienne Poirier
Publisher: Shambhala Publications
ISBN: 1590300602
Category : Sports & Recreation
Languages : en
Pages : 171
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Book Description
There is no greater or more powerful or more pure human rapport with the elements than that experienced by a surfer dancing with the ocean. In Dancing the Wave, Jean-Etienne Poirier brings alive the world of surfing by offering historical, anthropological, and cultural perspectives on this increasingly popular sport. By recounting tales of his own surfing adventures, he opens the door to this world beyond the summer sun and simple pleasures of the ride, inviting readers to reflect upon the true place of human beings in the universe. This book is for all board riders, for all those who are touched by the forces of the ocean, and for all those who wish to understand the boldness of surfers, who join power and elegance in that harmonious dance with the sinuous movement of the wave.
Author: Jean-Etienne Poirier
Publisher: Shambhala Publications
ISBN: 1590300602
Category : Sports & Recreation
Languages : en
Pages : 171
Get Book Here
Book Description
There is no greater or more powerful or more pure human rapport with the elements than that experienced by a surfer dancing with the ocean. In Dancing the Wave, Jean-Etienne Poirier brings alive the world of surfing by offering historical, anthropological, and cultural perspectives on this increasingly popular sport. By recounting tales of his own surfing adventures, he opens the door to this world beyond the summer sun and simple pleasures of the ride, inviting readers to reflect upon the true place of human beings in the universe. This book is for all board riders, for all those who are touched by the forces of the ocean, and for all those who wish to understand the boldness of surfers, who join power and elegance in that harmonious dance with the sinuous movement of the wave.
Author: Sally MacKinnon
Publisher:
ISBN: 9780646996042
Category :
Languages : en
Pages : 130
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Book Description
Sally MacKinnon left a career as a professional environmental protector with a PhD in Adult Education, to reinvent herself as a fitness, yoga and surfing instructor on Queensland's Gold Coast. This is her story about finding joy, meaning and delight in the twists and turns of everyday life.
Author: William Finnegan
Publisher: Penguin
ISBN: 0143109391
Category : Biography & Autobiography
Languages : en
Pages : 466
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Book Description
**Winner of the 2016 Pulitzer Prize for Autobiography** Included in President Obama’s 2016 Summer Reading List “Without a doubt, the finest surf book I’ve ever read . . . ” —The New York Times Magazine Barbarian Days is William Finnegan’s memoir of an obsession, a complex enchantment. Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates, it is something else: a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a morally dangerous pastime, a way of life. Raised in California and Hawaii, Finnegan started surfing as a child. He has chased waves all over the world, wandering for years through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa. A bookish boy, and then an excessively adventurous young man, he went on to become a distinguished writer and war reporter. Barbarian Days takes us deep into unfamiliar worlds, some of them right under our noses—off the coasts of New York and San Francisco. It immerses the reader in the edgy camaraderie of close male friendships forged in challenging waves. Finnegan shares stories of life in a whites-only gang in a tough school in Honolulu. He shows us a world turned upside down for kids and adults alike by the social upheavals of the 1960s. He details the intricacies of famous waves and his own apprenticeships to them. Youthful folly—he drops LSD while riding huge Honolua Bay, on Maui—is served up with rueful humor. As Finnegan’s travels take him ever farther afield, he discovers the picturesque simplicity of a Samoan fishing village, dissects the sexual politics of Tongan interactions with Americans and Japanese, and navigates the Indonesian black market while nearly succumbing to malaria. Throughout, he surfs, carrying readers with him on rides of harrowing, unprecedented lucidity. Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, an intellectual autobiography, a social history, a literary road movie, and an extraordinary exploration of the gradual mastering of an exacting, little-understood art.
Author: Nick Ford
Publisher: Taylor & Francis
ISBN: 9780415334334
Category : Social Science
Languages : en
Pages : 220
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Book Description
Drawing on popular surf culture, academic literature and the analytical tools of social theory, this is the first sustained commentary on the contemporary social and cultural meaning of surfing, exploring mind and body, emotions, and aesthetics.
Author: Timothy J. Cooley
Publisher: Univ of California Press
ISBN: 0520276647
Category : History
Languages : en
Pages : 238
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Book Description
"Roth Family Foundation music in America imprint"--First printed page.
Author: Diane Cardwell
Publisher: Houghton Mifflin
ISBN: 0358067782
Category : Biography & Autobiography
Languages : en
Pages : 275
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Book Description
The inspirational story of one woman learning to surf and creating a new life in gritty, eccentric Rockaway Beach Unmoored by a failed marriage and disconnected from her high-octane life in the city, Diane Cardwell finds herself staring at a small group of surfers coasting through mellow waves toward shore--and senses something shift. Rockawayis the riveting, joyful story of one woman's reinvention--beginning with Cardwell taking the A Train to Rockaway, a neglected spit of land dangling off New York City into the Atlantic Ocean. She finds a teacher, buys a tiny bungalow, and throws her not-overly-athletic self headlong into learning the inner workings and rhythms of waves and the muscle development and coordination needed to ride them. As Cardwell begins to find her balance in the water and out, superstorm Sandy hits, sending her into the maelstrom in search of safer ground. In the aftermath, the community comes together and rebuilds, rekindling its bacchanalian spirit as a historic surfing community, one with its own quirky codes and surf culture. And Cardwell's surfing takes off as she finds a true home among her fellow passionate longboarders at the Rockaway Beach Surf Club, living out "the most joyful path through life." Rockawayis a stirring story of inner salvation sought through a challenging physical pursuit--and of learning to accept the idea of a complete reset, no matter when in life it comes.
Author: Karen Rinaldi
Publisher: Atria Books
ISBN: 150119576X
Category : Self-Help
Languages : en
Pages : 256
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Book Description
Discover how the freedom of sucking at something can help you build resilience, embrace imperfection, and find joy in the pursuit rather than the goal. What if the secret to resilience and joy is the one thing we’ve been taught to avoid? When was the last time you tried something new? Something that won’t make you more productive, make you more money, or check anything off your to-do list? Something you’re really, really bad at, but that brought you joy? Odds are, not recently. As a sh*tty surfer and all-around-imperfect human Karen Rinaldi explains in this eye-opening book, we live in a time of aspirational psychoses. We humblebrag about how hard we work and we prioritize productivity over play. Even kids don’t play for the sake of playing anymore: they’re building blocks to build the ideal college application. But we’re all being had. We’re told to be the best or nothing at all. We’re trapped in an epic and farcical quest for perfection. We judge others on stuff we can’t even begin to master, and it’s all making us more anxious and depressed than ever. Worse, we’re not improving on what really matters. This book provides the antidote. (It’s Great to) Suck at Something reveals that the key to a richer, more fulfilling life is finding something to suck at. Drawing on her personal experience sucking at surfing (a sport she’s dedicated nearly two decades of her life to doing without ever coming close to getting good at it) along with philosophy, literature, and the latest science, Rinaldi explores sucking as a lost art we must reclaim for our health and our sanity and helps us find the way to our own riotous suck-ability. She draws from sources as diverse as Anthony Bourdain and surfing luminary Jaimal Yogis, Thich Nhat Hanh, and Jean-Paul Sartre, among many others, and explains the marvelous things that happen to our mammalian brains when we try something new, all to discover what she’s learned firsthand: it is great to suck at something. Sucking at something rewires our brain in positive ways, helps us cultivate grit, and inspires us to find joy in the process, without obsessing about the destination. Ultimately, it gives you freedom: the freedom to suck without caring is revelatory. Coupling honest, hilarious storytelling with unexpected insights, (It’s Great to) Suck at Something is an invitation to embrace our shortcomings as the very best of who we are and to open ourselves up to adventure, where we may not find what we thought we were looking for, but something way more important.
Author: Michael Gard
Publisher: Peter Lang
ISBN: 9780820472669
Category : Art
Languages : en
Pages : 252
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Book Description
What kinds of men become theatrical dancers? Why do men do ballet? The worlds of Western theatrical dance, gender relations and sexuality intermingle and, overtime, produce different answers to these questions. Survey of the history of men in dance, as Nijinsky and Nureyev, and of subjects as masculinity and homosexuality.
Author: Emily Coates
Publisher: Yale University Press
ISBN: 0300240635
Category : Science
Languages : en
Pages : 193
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Book Description
A fascinating exploration of our reality through the eyes of a physicist and a dancer—and an engaging introduction to both disciplines From stepping out of our beds each morning to admiring the stars at night, we live in a world of motion, energy, space, and time. How do we understand the phenomena that shape our experience? How do we make sense of our physical realities? Two guides—a former member of New York City Ballet, Emily Coates, and a CERN particle physicist, Sarah Demers—show us how their respective disciplines can help us to understand both the quotidian and the deepest questions about the universe. Requiring no previous knowledge of dance or physics, this introduction covers the fundamentals while revealing how a dialogue between art and science can enrich our appreciation of both. Readers will come away with a broad cultural knowledge of Newtonian to quantum mechanics and classical to contemporary dance. Including problem sets and choreographic exercises to solidify understanding, this book will be of interest to anyone curious about physics or dance.
Author: Grant Blashki
Publisher:
ISBN: 9780980332087
Category : Australian
Languages : en
Pages : 229
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Book Description
Getting the upper hand on health troubles is possible for most people when they establish a healthier rhythm to their life. Like a surfer in sync with the surge of the wave, or a dancer finding the beat of the music, achieving a sense of wellbeing is often about becoming comfortable with one's own tempo. Life Surfing Life Dancing brings together some inspirational writers to discuss their views on well-being, based not only on their clinical and research roles, but also from their life experiences.
