Surface Roughness, Sea-surface Slope and Wind-wave Spectrum PDF Download
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Author: Jin Wu
Publisher:
ISBN:
Category : Fluid dynamics
Languages : en
Pages : 56
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Book Description
The mean square slope of the sea surface is shown to vary logarithmically with the wind velocity, and the rate of variation changes with different boundary-layer regimes of the wind. Based on mean square slope data, the spectra constant of the directional wind-wave spectrum in the equilibrium range is seen to vary with wind regimes. An approximate correlation is presented between the mean square slope and the roughness height of the sea surface. (Author).
Author: Jin Wu
Publisher:
ISBN:
Category : Fluid dynamics
Languages : en
Pages : 56
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Book Description
The mean square slope of the sea surface is shown to vary logarithmically with the wind velocity, and the rate of variation changes with different boundary-layer regimes of the wind. Based on mean square slope data, the spectra constant of the directional wind-wave spectrum in the equilibrium range is seen to vary with wind regimes. An approximate correlation is presented between the mean square slope and the roughness height of the sea surface. (Author).
Author: Jin Wu
Publisher:
ISBN:
Category :
Languages : en
Pages : 12
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Book Description
The measured mean square slope of the sea surface was shown to vary logarithmically with the wind velocity, and the rates of variation change with different boundary-layer regimes of the wind. Based on mean square slope data, the spectral constant of the directional wind-wave spectrum in the equilibrium range was considered to vary with wind regimes. The different rates of growth of slope with wind velocity is now interpreted as the result of the cutoff wave number extending into the capillary range at high wind velocities. (Author).
Author: Stanislaw Ryszard Massel
Publisher: World Scientific
ISBN: 9814502286
Category : Technology & Engineering
Languages : en
Pages : 509
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Book Description
New Edition: Ocean Surface Waves: Their Physics and Prediction (3rd Edition)This book is intended as a handbook for professionals and researchers in the areas of Physical Oceanography, Ocean and Coastal Engineering and as a text for graduate students in these fields.It presents a comprehensive study on surface ocean waves induced by wind, including basic mathematical principles, physical description of the observed phenomena, practical forecasting techniques of various wave parameters and applications in ocean and coastal engineering, all from the probabilistic and spectral points of view.The book commences with a description of mechanisms of surface wave generation by wind and its modern modeling techniques. The stochastic and probabilistic terminology is introduced and the basic statistical and spectral properties of ocean waves are developed and discussed in detail.The bulk of material deals with the prediction techniques for waves in deep and coastal waters for simple and complex ocean basins and complex bathymetry. The various prediction methods, currently used in oceanography and ocean engineering, are described and the examples of practical calculations illustrate the basic text.An appendix provides a description of the modern methods of wave measurement, including the remote sensing techniques. Also the wave simulation methods and random data analysis techniques are discussed. In the book a lot of discoveries of the Russian and East European scientists, largely unknown in the Western literature due to the language barrier, are referred to.
Author:
Publisher:
ISBN:
Category :
Languages : en
Pages : 2
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Book Description
Author: Peter Janssen
Publisher: Cambridge University Press
ISBN: 0521465400
Category : Science
Languages : en
Pages : 310
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Book Description
This book was published in 2004. The Interaction of Ocean Waves and Wind describes in detail the two-way interaction between wind and ocean waves and shows how ocean waves affect weather forecasting on timescales of 5 to 90 days. Winds generate ocean waves, but at the same time airflow is modified due to the loss of energy and momentum to the waves; thus, momentum loss from the atmosphere to the ocean depends on the state of the waves. This volume discusses ocean wave evolution according to the energy balance equation. An extensive overview of nonlinear transfer is given, and as a by-product the role of four-wave interactions in the generation of extreme events, such as freak waves, is discussed. Effects on ocean circulation are described. Coupled ocean-wave, atmosphere modelling gives improved weather and wave forecasts. This volume will interest ocean wave modellers, physicists and applied mathematicians, and engineers interested in shipping and coastal protection.
Author: Ian S. F. Jones
Publisher: Cambridge University Press
ISBN: 0521662435
Category : Mathematics
Languages : en
Pages : 277
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Book Description
A comprehensive 2001 volume for researchers and graduate students in oceanography, meteorology, fluid dynamics and coastal engineering.
Author: Stanislaw R. Massel
Publisher: World Scientific
ISBN: 9814460125
Category : Science
Languages : en
Pages : 690
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Book Description
The book contains a comprehensive study on surface ocean waves induced by wind, earthquakes, and possibly landslides and asteroids impacts. Basic mathematical principles, physical description of the observed phenomena, practical forecasting techniques of the various wave parameters and extended application in ocean and coastal engineering, are discussed from the stochastic point of view. New topics include wave breaking mechanisms in deep- and shallow water, and freak waves.
Author: Stanislaw Ryszard Massel
Publisher: World Scientific
ISBN: 9813228393
Category : Technology & Engineering
Languages : en
Pages : 801
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Book Description
This book is an extended and substantially updated edition of the previous book editions published in 1996 and 2013 under the same title. The 3rd edition is a one-volume, modern and comprehensive overview of the current knowledge of regular and random ocean surface waves in deep waters and in coastal zones.Since the previous editions many new theoretical advances have been made in the physical understanding and analytical and numerical treatment of various ocean wave problems. The revisions and supplements demanded by these advances have been substantial, therefore the scope of the book has been extended by adding a new chapter and substantially supplementing others.All chapters of the book have been rewritten to include and describe in detail many new discoveries made since the completion of the previous editions. In this 3rd edition a comprehensive and updated overview of the fundamentals of the regular wave mechanics, as well as the spectral and statistical properties of random waves are given. Except for the updated chapters dedicated to tsunami and extreme waves, a new chapter dealing with other types of impulsive waves starting from rest, are also included.The air-sea interaction processes as well as the last improvements in ocean wave modelling and presently available wave prediction models (WAM, WAVEWATCH III, UMWM, NEMO) are thoroughly discussed and their applications are demonstrated. The review of the present ocean observation methods encompasses the modern sea-truthing, as well as applications of data from presently operating marine satellites.In this revised edition, chapters on the behavior of surface waves in the vegetated environments such as coral reef, mangrove forest, seaweed and seagrass areas are substantially extended and updated to include the last discoveries.The explanations in the book are self-contained and detailed enough to capture the interest of the potential readers and to prompt them to explore the research literature. The list of rapidly growing number of the recent papers on the ocean waves has been extended substantially, up to about 900 titles.
Author: United States. Beach Erosion Board
Publisher:
ISBN:
Category : Gravity waves
Languages : en
Pages : 208
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Book Description
Author: G. J. Komen
Publisher: Cambridge University Press
ISBN: 0521470471
Category : Science
Languages : en
Pages : 558
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Book Description
A comprehensive introduction and reference prepared by the world's leading ocean wave modellers.
