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Author: Tony Butt
Publisher: Alison Hodge Publishers
ISBN: 9780906720899
Category : Sports & Recreation
Languages : en
Pages : 140
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Book Description
Have you ever wondered where surfing waves come from, what makes every wave different, why some peel perfectly and others just close out; why, some days, the waves come in sets and other days they don’t, and how the tides, the wind and the shape of the sea floor affect the waves for surfing? If you have, this book is for you. Now in its third edition, Surf Science is the first book to talk in depth about the science of waves from a surfer’s point of view. It fills the gap between surfing books and waves textbooks, and will help you learn how to predict surf. Surf Science is also a useful introduction to oceanography and the science of waves. You don’t need a scientific background to read it – just curiosity and a fascination for waves.
Author: Tony Butt
Publisher: Alison Hodge Publishers
ISBN: 9780906720899
Category : Sports & Recreation
Languages : en
Pages : 140
Get Book Here
Book Description
Have you ever wondered where surfing waves come from, what makes every wave different, why some peel perfectly and others just close out; why, some days, the waves come in sets and other days they don’t, and how the tides, the wind and the shape of the sea floor affect the waves for surfing? If you have, this book is for you. Now in its third edition, Surf Science is the first book to talk in depth about the science of waves from a surfer’s point of view. It fills the gap between surfing books and waves textbooks, and will help you learn how to predict surf. Surf Science is also a useful introduction to oceanography and the science of waves. You don’t need a scientific background to read it – just curiosity and a fascination for waves.
Author: Kim Dwinell
Publisher: Top Shelf Productions
ISBN: 1684069963
Category : Juvenile Fiction
Languages : en
Pages : 116
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Book Description
The ocean is packed with plants, animals, water… and science! Ride the waves of knowledge with Sam and Jade as they explain all about the amazing wonders of the sea, and have a blast doing it. Have you ever wondered why the ocean has waves? Why the tide goes in and out? And how can coral be alive when it looks like a rock? From the pages of the beloved graphic novel series, join the Surfside Girls, Sam and Jade, for a great investigation into everything that makes the ocean so cool: from moon cycles and king tides, to why a wave breaks, to otters in kelp forests… with plenty of fun and jokes along the way. Plus, there’s a whole step-by-step chapter on how to surf! The Science of Surfing is the coolest way to take a beach vacation and learn at the same time.
Author: Steven Kotler
Publisher: Bloomsbury Publishing USA
ISBN: 1596918357
Category : Sports & Recreation
Languages : en
Pages : 270
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Book Description
After spending two years in bed with Lyme disease, Steven Kotler had lost everything: his health, his job, his girl, and, he was beginning to suspect, his mind. Kotler, not a religious man, suddenly found himself drawn to the sport of surfing as if it were the cornerstone of a new faith. Why, he wondered, when there was nothing left to believe in, could he begin to believe in something as unlikely as surfing? What was belief anyway? How did it work in the body, the brain, our culture, and human history? With the help of everyone from rebel surfers to rocket scientists, Kotler undertakes a three-year globetrotting quest. The results are a startling mix of big waves and bigger ideas: a surfer's journey into the biological underpinnings of belief itself.
Author: Tony Butt
Publisher: Alison Hodge Publishers
ISBN: 9780906720585
Category : Science
Languages : en
Pages : 182
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Book Description
Surfing.
Author: William Finnegan
Publisher: Penguin
ISBN: 0143109391
Category : Biography & Autobiography
Languages : en
Pages : 466
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Book Description
**Winner of the 2016 Pulitzer Prize for Autobiography** Included in President Obama’s 2016 Summer Reading List “Without a doubt, the finest surf book I’ve ever read . . . ” —The New York Times Magazine Barbarian Days is William Finnegan’s memoir of an obsession, a complex enchantment. Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates, it is something else: a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a morally dangerous pastime, a way of life. Raised in California and Hawaii, Finnegan started surfing as a child. He has chased waves all over the world, wandering for years through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa. A bookish boy, and then an excessively adventurous young man, he went on to become a distinguished writer and war reporter. Barbarian Days takes us deep into unfamiliar worlds, some of them right under our noses—off the coasts of New York and San Francisco. It immerses the reader in the edgy camaraderie of close male friendships forged in challenging waves. Finnegan shares stories of life in a whites-only gang in a tough school in Honolulu. He shows us a world turned upside down for kids and adults alike by the social upheavals of the 1960s. He details the intricacies of famous waves and his own apprenticeships to them. Youthful folly—he drops LSD while riding huge Honolua Bay, on Maui—is served up with rueful humor. As Finnegan’s travels take him ever farther afield, he discovers the picturesque simplicity of a Samoan fishing village, dissects the sexual politics of Tongan interactions with Americans and Japanese, and navigates the Indonesian black market while nearly succumbing to malaria. Throughout, he surfs, carrying readers with him on rides of harrowing, unprecedented lucidity. Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, an intellectual autobiography, a social history, a literary road movie, and an extraordinary exploration of the gradual mastering of an exacting, little-understood art.
Author: Rob Brander
Publisher: Columbia University Press
ISBN: 0231217412
Category : Science
Languages : en
Pages : 267
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Book Description
How do waves break, and what makes good surf? What are dangerous rip currents, and how do you spot one? What should you do if you get caught in one? Australia’s best-known surf scientist, Rob “Dr. Rip” Brander, takes readers on a fascinating and entertaining journey to uncover how beaches form and behave, the science of waves and currents, and how beaches respond to storms and climate change. He explains where the sand we lay our towels on came from, how the tides that wash up new treasures each day work, why no two beaches are exactly the same, and why some of them are disappearing. He also explores some of the hazards to watch out for, from rip currents to tsunamis to the (unlikely) event you find yourself swimming with a shark. Whether you’re a surfer looking for the perfect wave or you just enjoy hitting the beach with friends and family, this book is a must-read for all ocean lovers.
Author: Andrew Nathanson
Publisher: Simon and Schuster
ISBN: 1510749047
Category : Self-Help
Languages : en
Pages : 599
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Book Description
Three expert physicians/surfers trained in emergency medicine, sports medicine, and family medicine explain everything you need to know to stay safe in the water. Whether you’re a novice or an expert, an SUPer or a bodyboarder, Surf Survival is the only book that every surfer must have in his or her backpack, car, and beach house. This practical handbook explains everything from how to reduce a shoulder dislocation to understanding waves and currents, from how to treat jellyfish stings to how to apply a tourniquet. Whether you are surfing a crowded beach in California or a remote island in Indonesia, be prepared to handle surfing-related emergencies from hypothermia and drowning to wound care and infections. Topics include: • Fitness for surfers • Prevention and rehabilitation of common overuse injuries • Wilderness first aid • Surviving the sun • Surf-travel medicine • Surviving big surf • SUP • Surfer's ear • And much, much more! Written by three expert physician surfers, packed with color photos and illustrations, this is the authoritative medical guide for surfers and watermen.
Author: Martin L. Gorbaty
Publisher: Academic Press
ISBN: 1483268209
Category : Technology & Engineering
Languages : en
Pages : 365
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Book Description
Coal Science, Volume 3 presents and evaluates selected fundamental scientific areas on coal structure, reactivity, and utilization. This book describes the organic geochemistry of coal, role of oxygen functionality in coal and coal liquids reactivity, chemistry of hydrocarbon syntheses from carbon monoxide and hydrogen, and chemistry of coal in carbon monoxide/water systems. Other topics discussed include intermediates and mechanisms of the FTS of hydrocarbons; synthesis of oxygenates; and structural features of vitrinite macerals. The molecular weight determination for coal derivatives; thermal reactions of oxygen compounds; and alternative methods for removing oxygen compounds from coal-derived liquids are also elaborated. This publication likewise covers the aqueous coal conversions and conversion mechanism. This volume serves as a valuable source of information and guide to scientists and researchers interested in the coal literature.
Author: J. Nowotny
Publisher: Newnes
ISBN: 0080544940
Category : Technology & Engineering
Languages : en
Pages : 707
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Book Description
This collection of papers arose from the Proceedings of the International Workshop on Interfaces of Ceramic Materials held in Australia, 1993 and is a continuation of the previous book published under the same title. The objective of the Workshop was to discuss research progress on the chemistry of ceramic interfaces and related industrial aspects. Due to the multidisciplinary character of ceramic interfaces the book contains articles covering several areas of expertise, including ceramics, surface science, solid state electrochemistry, metallurgy and high temperature chemistry. Some technical papers are also included in this volume.Scientists and engineers working in these areas, as well as students in materials science and engineering, will find this book of particular significance.
Author: Didier Piter
Publisher: Low Pressure Publishing
ISBN: 9781908520999
Category : Sports & Recreation
Languages : en
Pages : 164
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Book Description
Secrets to Progressive Surfing is not your average learn to surf book aimed at getting beginners up and riding. This is a detailed analysis of what it takes to master just about every maneuver in the book, from the humble take-off to the modern aerial and everything in between. The text is clear and understandable, broken down into logical step by step progressions, shedding light on the techniques used by the pros. And what better pro to demonstrate the required skills in beautifully photographed sequences than Kelly Slater, 11 times World Champ, who plays a starring role in this incredible book that has something for every surfer on the planet.
