Measuring Shallow Water Waves with Pressure Sensors

Measuring Shallow Water Waves with Pressure Sensors PDF Author: Vitor Manuel Henriques Goncalo
Publisher:
ISBN:
Category : Ocean waves
Languages : en
Pages : 146

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Book Description
For two locations within the surf zone sea surface elevations were observed using a wave staff and a pressure sensor while simultaneously the two horizontal orthogonal components, u and v, of water particle velocity were measured. Surface elevations derived from pressure sensors are lower, mainly in the region of the crest, compared with the same surface elevations measured with wave gages. Pressure records are more smoothed than wave gage records, and the energy computed for waves measured with a pressure sensor is consistently smaller than for waves measured with a wave gage. Methods for converting pressure to surface elevation are given which include the non-linear velocity term (u sq + v sq) which is usually neglected in the Bernoulli equation. Two techniques are proposed to include this term: (1) flowmeters are used to measure u and v, and (2) the Bernoulli term is derived by determining the velocities by convolving the pressure records using a weighting function determined from shallow water theory.

Measuring and Understanding Coastal Processes

Measuring and Understanding Coastal Processes PDF Author: National Research Council
Publisher: National Academies Press
ISBN: 0309041295
Category : Science
Languages : en
Pages : 130

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Book Description
Much of the U.S. coastline is rapidly changingâ€"mostly eroding. That fact places increasing pressure on the planners and managers responsible for coastal development and protection, and could have a direct effect on many of the 125 million Americans living within 50 miles of the coast who rely on its resources and beaches for their livelihood or recreation. Although rapid advances have been made in the measurement systems needed to understand and describe the forces and changes at work in the surf-zone environment, their potential for allowing more accurate and reliable planning and engineering responses has not been fully realized. This book assesses coastal data needs, instrumentation, and analyses, and recommends areas in which more information or better instrumentation is needed.

Measuring Ocean Currents

Measuring Ocean Currents PDF Author: Antony Joseph
Publisher: Newnes
ISBN: 0123914280
Category : Science
Languages : en
Pages : 447

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Book Description
Measuring Ocean Currents: Tools, Technologies, and Data covers all major aspects of ocean current measurements in view of the implications of ocean currents on changing climate, increasing pollution levels, and offshore engineering activities. Although more than 70% of the Earth is covered by ocean, there is limited information on the countless fine- to large-scale water motions taking place within them. This book fills that information gap as the first work that summarizes the state-of-the-art methods and instruments used for surface, subsurface, and abyssal ocean current measurements. Readers of this book will find a wealth of information on Lagrangian measurements, horizontal mapping, imaging, Eulerian measurements, and vertical profiling techniques. In addition, the book describes modern technologies for remote measurement of ocean currents and their signatures, including HF Doppler radar systems, satellite-borne sensors, ocean acoustic tomography, and more. Crucial aspects of ocean currents are described in detail as well, including dispersion of effluents discharged into the sea and transport of beneficial materials—as well as environmentally hazardous materials—from one region to another. The book highlights several important practical applications, showing how measurements relate to climate change and pollution levels, how they affect coastal and offshore engineering activities, and how they can aid in tsunami detection. - Coverage of measurement, mapping and profiling techniques - Descriptions of technologies for remote measurement of ocean currents and their signatures - Reviews crucial aspects of ocean currents, including special emphasis on the planet-spanning thermohaline circulation, known as the ocean's "conveyor belt," and its crucial role in climate change

Basic Wave Mechanics

Basic Wave Mechanics PDF Author: Robert M. Sorensen
Publisher: John Wiley & Sons
ISBN: 9780471551652
Category : Technology & Engineering
Languages : en
Pages : 310

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Book Description
Intended for coastal engineers and marine scientists who desire to develop a fundamental physical understanding of ocean waves and be able to apply this knowledge to ocean and coastal analysis and design. Provides an introduction to the physical processes of ocean wave mechanics, an understanding of the basic techniques for wave analysis, techniques for practical calculation and prediction of waves and applied wave forecasting.

Directional Irregular Wave Kinematics

Directional Irregular Wave Kinematics PDF Author: Christopher H. Barker
Publisher:
ISBN:
Category : Kinematics
Languages : en
Pages : 190

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Book Description


Handbook of Ocean Wave Energy

Handbook of Ocean Wave Energy PDF Author: Arthur Pecher
Publisher: Springer
ISBN: 331939889X
Category : Technology & Engineering
Languages : en
Pages : 305

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Book Description
This book is open access under a CC BY-NC 2.5 license. This book offers a concise, practice-oriented reference-guide to the field of ocean wave energy. The ten chapters highlight the key rules of thumb, address all the main technical engineering aspects and describe in detail all the key aspects to be considered in the techno-economic assessment of wave energy converters. Written in an easy-to-understand style, the book answers questions relevant to readers of different backgrounds, from developers, private and public investors, to students and researchers. It is thereby a valuable resource for both newcomers and experienced practitioners in the wave energy sector.

Topographical Measurements of Water Waves at a Matrix of Measuring Points

Topographical Measurements of Water Waves at a Matrix of Measuring Points PDF Author: Peter Vennemann
Publisher: diplom.de
ISBN: 3832450300
Category : Science
Languages : en
Pages : 50

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Book Description
Inhaltsangabe:Abstract: The measurement of the shape of a water wave is important for the study of a wide range of questions like the understanding of wave motions, the wave shapes dependence an the quality of the ground, the water depth or the surface tension which might be altered by pollution. The mixing of substances or gases at the surface of the sea is dependent an the waves shapes. The shape of a water wave is also interesting for understanding the transport mechanisms and the energy of waves. Knowledge about water wave shapes is essential for the design of an effective shore protection which is going to be more and more important when the sea level is rising. Furthermore offshore designers require knowledge about the shape of a wave during its interaction with installations for optimising the shape of offshore structures and for calculating the loading. This is a key requisite for the design and the construction of cost effective and save structures of any kind like buoys, lifeboats, ships, oil rigs or other offshore platforms. Measurements of wave shapes for example can help to understand the interference or upwelling caused by the legs of typical offffshore platform geometries which can enhance the wave amplitude and possible wave impact with the underside of the platform. The probably simplest way of measuring the surface of a wave is to put a certain number of water depth gauges into the water, taking a photo of the wave when it is passing the gauges and then reading every single measure from the photograph. The wave shape can be reconstructed by interpolating the waves surface between the measuring points. The considerable distortion of the measuring object by the measuring instruments is disadvantageous. An array of pressure sensors in a plain below the water surface can be used instead of the gauges to avoid the distortions. The pressure at every single sensor is a measure for the water height above the sensor. The disadvantage of this method is the sensitivity of the pressure sensors for the dynamic pressure of water flows caused by turbulences, in particular in shallow water, underneath breaking waves or close to constructions. Also disadvantageous is the necessity of mounting a part of the measuring system under the water. To avoid this problems, photographic methods for the recording of surface waves have been developed: At the beginning of the 20th century the first attempts have been made to collect elevation data of ocean [...]

Ocean Wave Mechanics

Ocean Wave Mechanics PDF Author: V. Sundar
Publisher: John Wiley & Sons
ISBN: 1119241634
Category : Science
Languages : en
Pages : 284

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Book Description
This is a textbook aimed at graduate students and offshore engineering practitioners that covers basic fluid mechanics and the deterministic and statistical descriptions of infinitesimal and finite amplitude water waves. It reviews the theory of wave loading on structures and closes with a chapter on the potential of ocean wave energy and devices for extracting it. Since the 1980s there has been tremendous progress in numerical and physical modelling of coastal and offshore structures in waves. This calls for a clear understanding of the phenomena of wave generation, propagation, deformation and its effects on marine structures. This book will help the reader to understand the many results and descriptions found in journals, reports and research papers. It is self-contained, and encompasses the fundamentals of the subject with sufficient description and illustrations.

Introduction to Coastal Dynamics and Shoreline Protection

Introduction to Coastal Dynamics and Shoreline Protection PDF Author: G. Benassai
Publisher: WIT Press
ISBN: 1845640543
Category : Technology & Engineering
Languages : en
Pages : 353

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Book Description
"Provides an integrated approach to coastal dynamics and shoreline protection, aided by the use of specific case studies" -- Back cover.

The Direction of Coastal Engineering in the Corps and the Resulting Impact on R & D

The Direction of Coastal Engineering in the Corps and the Resulting Impact on R & D PDF Author: Coastal Engineering Research Board. Meeting
Publisher:
ISBN:
Category : Coastal engineering
Languages : en
Pages : 308

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Book Description