Legends of Surfing

Legends of Surfing PDF Author: Duke Boyd
Publisher: MVP Books
ISBN: 1616731087
Category : Sports & Recreation
Languages : en
Pages : 210

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Book Description
Surfing, Jack London remarked, is “a royal sport for the natural kings of earth.” The greatest of those natural kings grant readers an audience in this glorious celebration of the world’s best surfers. Part exquisite picture book and travelogue to the top of the world, part biography and reference guidebook, Legends of Surfing profiles one hundred great surfers, men and women, from throughout the world. In life stories, and in exclusive interviews--which only the surfing icon Duke Boyd could have pulled off--stellar surfers such as Wayne Bartholomew, Tom Curren, Andy and Bruce Irons, Duke Kahanamoku, Dave Kalama, Gerry Lopez, Rob Machado, Mark Occhilupo, and Kelly Slater give us a rare firsthand look at what it’s like, in this crowded world, to “seek and find the perfect day, the perfect wave, and be alone with the surf and his thoughts.” (John Severson, Surfer magazine, 1960)

Legends of Surfing

Legends of Surfing PDF Author: Duke Boyd
Publisher: MVP Books
ISBN: 1616731087
Category : Sports & Recreation
Languages : en
Pages : 210

Get Book Here

Book Description
Surfing, Jack London remarked, is “a royal sport for the natural kings of earth.” The greatest of those natural kings grant readers an audience in this glorious celebration of the world’s best surfers. Part exquisite picture book and travelogue to the top of the world, part biography and reference guidebook, Legends of Surfing profiles one hundred great surfers, men and women, from throughout the world. In life stories, and in exclusive interviews--which only the surfing icon Duke Boyd could have pulled off--stellar surfers such as Wayne Bartholomew, Tom Curren, Andy and Bruce Irons, Duke Kahanamoku, Dave Kalama, Gerry Lopez, Rob Machado, Mark Occhilupo, and Kelly Slater give us a rare firsthand look at what it’s like, in this crowded world, to “seek and find the perfect day, the perfect wave, and be alone with the surf and his thoughts.” (John Severson, Surfer magazine, 1960)

Surfing Florida

Surfing Florida PDF Author: Paul Aho
Publisher:
ISBN: 9780813049489
Category : Photography
Languages : en
Pages : 0

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Book Description
This book offers a lively and well-researched visual history of Florida surfing--its origins, its people and personalities, its innovations, its deep influence on the sport's international reach.

Legends of the Sandbar

Legends of the Sandbar PDF Author: Christopher Bickford
Publisher:
ISBN: 9780983786481
Category :
Languages : en
Pages : 250

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Book Description
A photographic and textual homage to the surfing community of the Outer Banks of North Carolina, written and photographed by Christopher Bickford. Mixes in-water photography with landscape and lifestyle photographs, and includes a variety of stories on the history, culture, and experience of the tight-knit community of waterlogged surf-heroes that make there homes on this thin strip of sand dangling on the edge of the continental shelf.

Making Mavericks

Making Mavericks PDF Author: Frosty Hesson
Publisher: Skyhorse
ISBN: 9781620878750
Category : Sports & Recreation
Languages : en
Pages : 320

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Book Description
When Richard “Frosty” Hesson was first approached by a young Jay Moriarty in 1990, the skinny kid with a sparkle in his eye only wanted one thing from the icon: his help in becoming a better surfer. Hesson, one of the first to conquer the huge waves off northern California known as Mavericks, recognized that the kid “had a vision.” Jay quickly demonstrated a resolve that reminded Frosty of his younger self, pursuing his goal with a seriousness far beyond his years. His attitude and work ethic earned Frosty’s respect and, eventually, his friendship. Making Mavericks is the inspiring story of their father-son bond and of the challenges that made each of them who they were—surf legends, and the subject of the upcoming film Chasing Mavericks. In Making Mavericks, Frosty talks about his turbulent youth spent under difficult circumstances, with parents who tried to find a positive way to handle a child with a passion for water and a disregard for his own safety. Throughout his life he developed principles to live by, principles that would become the core tenets of his teaching philosophy. Most significantly, Frosty talks about how one of his best students, Jay Moriarty, used his philosophy to become a surfing phenomenon, and whose life inspired the phrase, “Live like Jay.” Affecting and poignant, Making Mavericks is a celebration of Hesson’s determination to live with joy and purpose, and his desire to help others do the same.

Surfing Legends Alphabet

Surfing Legends Alphabet PDF Author: Beck Feiner
Publisher:
ISBN: 9780648672456
Category :
Languages : en
Pages :

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Book Description
From Duke Kahanamoku to Kelly Slater, Lisa Andersen to Margo Oberg, Surfing Legends Alphabet presents the A to Z of the greatest of greats who have ever dared to tame the angry sea. Cutely illustrated and passionately written, Surf Legends Alphabet is sure to make a splash with any young, or not so young, lover of the greatest water sport known to woman and man.

San Onofre

San Onofre PDF Author: David F. MKatuszak
Publisher:
ISBN: 9780963358288
Category :
Languages : en
Pages :

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Book Description
San Onofre: Memories of a Legendary Surfing Beach is a landmark achievement in the study of surfing history and culture from its origins in Polynesia, Peru, and Africa, to the role that San Onofre played in molding California surf culture.San Onofre is the story of the California surfing culture as seen through the eyes of the surfers at San Onofre Surf Beach. Pioneer surfers tell their own story of the Golden Age of Surfing and illustrate their tales with never-before-seen vintage photographs from their own family albums. Their stories offer a priceless collection of primary source data for future studies of the sport.

The Big Drop

The Big Drop PDF Author: John Long
Publisher: Falcon Guides
ISBN: 9781560449171
Category : Surfers
Languages : en
Pages : 260

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Book Description
A classic collection of big wave surfing stories that heralded a new era in surfing literature--32 tantalizing and terrifying true tales from the sport's pioneers

Surf by Day, Jam by Night

Surf by Day, Jam by Night PDF Author: Ash Grunwald
Publisher: Pantera Press
ISBN: 1925700453
Category : Biography & Autobiography
Languages : en
Pages : 334

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Book Description
Surf by Day, Jam by Night is seasoned bluesman and surfer Ash Grunwald's deep dive into the extraordinary. Ash takes to the road, interviewing 15 of the world's top surfer–musicians. From Kelly Slater to Stephanie Gilmore, Jack Johnson to Dave Rastovich, Pete Murray to G. Love and many more, like Ash, these are people doing life their own way. Soulful and candid, these conversations offer insights into the lives and minds of some masters of both surfing and music. Spanning stories of heavy wipe-outs and heaving crowds and riffs on style, the flow state, career longevity and jamming vs shredding, this book is an often light-hearted, wide-ranging meditation on what it really takes to live your dreams. If you've ever found yourself in any kind of rut and wondered if there's something more out there, here's a call to wake up, take your life into your hands and dare to follow your passions.

The Encyclopedia of Surfing

The Encyclopedia of Surfing PDF Author: Matt Warshaw
Publisher: Houghton Mifflin Harcourt
ISBN: 9780156032513
Category : Reference
Languages : en
Pages : 820

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Book Description
With 1,500 alphabetical entries and 300 illustrations, this resource is a comprehensive review of the people, places, events, equipment, vernacular, and lively history of this fascinating sport.

Surfing in Hawai'i

Surfing in Hawai'i PDF Author: Timothy Tovar DeLaVega
Publisher: Arcadia Publishing
ISBN: 9780738574882
Category : Sports & Recreation
Languages : en
Pages : 132

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Book Description
When the early European explorers traversed the globe, their journals held numerous accounts of Hawaiians enjoying surfing. Since Europeans of that era were not accustomed to swimming in their own cold waters, it must have seemed like a dream to watch naked native Hawaiians riding the waves of a turbulent sea. Nowhere in the ancient world was surfing as ingrained into the culture as on the islands of Hawai'i. He'e nalu (wave sliding) was the national sport and enjoyed by all. When a swell was up, whole villages were deserted as everyone fled to the beach to test their surfing skills. Legends of famous surf riders were retold in mele (song/chant), and fortunes could be decided on the outcome of a surfing contest. From these shores, modern surfing was born, along with the iconic romantic images of bronzed surfers, grass shacks, and hula.