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Author: Kent K. Hathaway
Publisher:
ISBN:
Category : Coastal engineering
Languages : en
Pages : 96
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Book Description
This report summarizes the present state of knowledge on infragravity wave motions (nominally 0.003 to 0.05 Hz). Theoretical and observational studies are presented. Most of the studies discussed herein have been published elsewhere, however a few studies discussed in chapter 4 are presented for the first time in this report Measurements of nearshore waves and currents have shown that a significant amount of the total energy can be contained in the infragravity band, and on highly dissipative beaches the infragravity wave variance often dominates over energy in the incident wave band(0.05 to 0.3 Hz). An 8-month data set of infragravity variance measured at 8-m-depth at the shoreline (runup) was compared with incident wave variance. Analysis of the 8-m-depth data showed that high mode edge waves account for about 50 percent of the total infragravity variance, and as high as 80 percent at times. Significant edge wave heights greater than 20 cm were observed at the 8-m depth. Infragravity wave variance was shown to have a higher correlation with swell variance (C = 0.95) than with sea variance (C = 0.61). This report was motivated, in part, by the need to determine the significance of infragravity waves on coastal erosion and structure damage and by the desire to improve coastal engineering solutions to problems associated with nearshore processes.
Author: Kent K. Hathaway
Publisher:
ISBN:
Category : Coastal engineering
Languages : en
Pages : 96
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Book Description
This report summarizes the present state of knowledge on infragravity wave motions (nominally 0.003 to 0.05 Hz). Theoretical and observational studies are presented. Most of the studies discussed herein have been published elsewhere, however a few studies discussed in chapter 4 are presented for the first time in this report Measurements of nearshore waves and currents have shown that a significant amount of the total energy can be contained in the infragravity band, and on highly dissipative beaches the infragravity wave variance often dominates over energy in the incident wave band(0.05 to 0.3 Hz). An 8-month data set of infragravity variance measured at 8-m-depth at the shoreline (runup) was compared with incident wave variance. Analysis of the 8-m-depth data showed that high mode edge waves account for about 50 percent of the total infragravity variance, and as high as 80 percent at times. Significant edge wave heights greater than 20 cm were observed at the 8-m depth. Infragravity wave variance was shown to have a higher correlation with swell variance (C = 0.95) than with sea variance (C = 0.61). This report was motivated, in part, by the need to determine the significance of infragravity waves on coastal erosion and structure damage and by the desire to improve coastal engineering solutions to problems associated with nearshore processes.
Author: Saad M. M. Abdelrahman
Publisher:
ISBN:
Category : Littoral drift
Languages : en
Pages : 140
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Book Description
The omni-present low frequency wave motion (30-300 sec) contains a substantial fraction of the total wave energy inside the surf zone. A more complete description of nearshore wave processes considers incident short period waves superposed on, and interacting with, long standing waves. The wind waves are modulated in amplitude, wavenumber and direction due to relatively slowly varying depth changes caused by the long waves. The energy in the wind wave band is enhanced by side band growth at the sum and difference frequencies of short and long waves (order 15% at the shoreline). The modulation is identified in the analysis of field data as a positive correlation between the long waves and the wind wave envelope near the shoreline. Considering oblique incident waves, a steady longshore current showing a non-vanishing current at the shoreline is found as a result of the non-linear interaction between monochromatic incident and infragravity waves. An analytical solution describing the unsteadiness of the longshore current is developed. Keywords include: Infragravity, Longshore Current, Sediment transport, and Surf zone dynamics. (Theses).
Author: Robin Davidson-Arnott
Publisher: Cambridge University Press
ISBN: 1108424279
Category : Nature
Languages : en
Pages : 541
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Book Description
Grounded in current research, this second edition has been thoroughly updated, featuring new topics, global examples and online material. Written for students studying coastal geomorphology, this is the complete guide to the processes at work on our coastlines and the features we see in coastal systems across the world.
Author: Mohammad F Mahmood
Publisher: World Scientific
ISBN: 9814465135
Category : Science
Languages : en
Pages : 214
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Book Description
The objective of this book is to introduce new researchers to the rich dynamical system of water waves, and to show how (some) abstract mathematical concepts can be applied fruitfully in a practical physical problem and to make the connection between theory and experiment. It provides a coherent set of lectures on the current status of water wave theory, including identification of some open problems.
Author: Derek Jackson
Publisher: Elsevier
ISBN: 0081029276
Category : Science
Languages : en
Pages : 814
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Book Description
Sandy beaches represent some of the most dynamic environments on Earth and examining their morphodynamic behaviour over different temporal and spatial scales is challenging, relying on multidisciplinary approaches and techniques. Sandy Beach Morphodynamics brings together the latest research on beach systems and their morphodynamics and the ways in which they are studied in 29 chapters that review the full spectrum of beach morphodynamics. The chapters are written by leading experts in the field and provide introductory level understanding of physical processes and resulting landforms, along with more advanced discussions.
Author: Hans Hanson
Publisher:
ISBN:
Category : Science
Languages : en
Pages : 1110
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Book Description
This collection contains 109 papers presented at the Fourth Conference on Coastal Dynamics, held in Lund, Sweden, June 11-15, 2001.
Author:
Publisher:
ISBN:
Category : Hydraulic engineering
Languages : en
Pages : 220
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Book Description
Author: Gerd Masselink
Publisher: Routledge
ISBN: 1134672918
Category : Nature
Languages : en
Pages : 513
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Book Description
The world's coastlines represent a myriad of dynamic and constantly changing environments. Heavily settled and intensely used areas, they are of enormous importance to humans and understanding how they are shaped and change is crucial to our future. Introduction to Coastal Processes and Geomorphologybegins by discussing coastal systems and shows how these systems link to the processes examined in detail throughout the book. These include the morphodynamic paradigm, tides, waves and sediment transport. Later chapters explore fluvial deltas, estuaries, beaches and barriers, coastal sand dunes and geologically-influenced coasts such as cliffs, coral reefs and atolls. A new chapter addresses the forward-facing aspect of coastal morphodynamics, including the ways in which coasts respond to rapid climate changes such as present day global warming. Also new to this second edition is a chapter on future coasts which considers the wider effects of coastal change on other important aspects of coastal systems, including ecology, management, socio-cultural activities, built and natural heritage, and archaeology. Case studies using examples from around the world illustrate theory in practice and bring the subject to life. Each chapter starts by outlining the 'aims' and questions at the end allow you to track your progress. This book is accompanied by additional resources online at www.hodderplus.com/geography including: Answers to the questions available to download as MP3 files Expanded case studies with colour photos, links to relevant websites and a map link to pinpoint the case study location Interactive multiple choice questions and worked examples The ebook edition is in VitalBookTM Bookshelf - an ebook reader which allows you to: download the ebook to your computer or access it anywhere with an internet browser search the full text of all of the ebooks that you hold on your bookshelf for instant access to the information you need make and share notes and highlights on your ebooks copy and print text and figures customize your view by changing font size and layout.
Author:
Publisher:
ISBN:
Category : Oceanography
Languages : en
Pages : 92
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Book Description
Author:
Publisher:
ISBN:
Category : Coastal engineering
Languages : en
Pages : 44
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Book Description
