Author: Bulk Quack
Publisher:
ISBN: 9781694821843
Category :
Languages : en
Pages : 122

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Book Description
Home is where the Ocean Is - Beach Waves Surf Journal

Author: Gerry Lopez
Publisher: Patagonia
ISBN: 1938340256
Category : Sports & Recreation
Languages : en
Pages : 571

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Book Description
Written by one of the most revered surfers of his generation, Gerry Lopez's Surf Is Where You Find It is a collection of stories about a lifetime of surfing. But more than that, it is a collection of stories about the lessons learned from surfing. It presents 38 stories about those who have been influential in the sport — surfing anytime, anywhere, and in any way. Lopez, an innovator in stand-up-paddle (one of the fastest growing water sports in the world), now shares his stories about pioneering that sport. Conveyed in Gerry's unique voice, augmented with photos from his personal collection, this book is a classic for surf enthusiasts everywhere.

Author: Brendan Jones
Publisher: HMH
ISBN: 0544325273
Category : Fiction
Languages : en
Pages : 387

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Book Description
“This novel will reconvince you of the power of wilderness to heal a human heart” (Pam Houston, author of Contents May Have Shifted). Tara Marconi has made her way from Philadelphia to “the Rock,” a remote island in Alaska governed by the seasons. Her mother’s death left her unmoored, with a seemingly impassable rift between her and her father. But in this majestic, rugged frontier she works her way up the commercial fishing ladder—from hatchery assistant all the way to king crabber. Disciplined from years as a young boxer, she learns anew what it means to work, to connect, and—through an unlikely old tugboat—how to make a home she knows is her own. A testament to the places that shape us and the places that change us, The Alaskan Laundry tells one woman’s unforgettable journey in waters as far and icy as the Bering Sea, back to the possibility of love.

Author: Wild Journals
Publisher: Independently Published
ISBN: 9781099472633
Category :
Languages : en
Pages : 122

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Book Description
Daily Diary / journal / notebook to write in, for creative writing, for creating lists, for Scheduling, Organizing and Recording your thoughts. Makes an excellent gift idea for birthdays, Christmas, coworkers or any special occasion. Perfectly sized at 6" x 9" 120 page Softcover bookbinding Flexible Paperback

Author: Bulk Quack
Publisher:
ISBN: 9781689183581
Category :
Languages : en
Pages : 122

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Book Description
Van Life - Surfer Beach Ocean Waves Surf - Journal

Author: William Finnegan
Publisher: Penguin
ISBN: 0143109391
Category : Biography & Autobiography
Languages : en
Pages : 466

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Book Description
**Winner of the 2016 Pulitzer Prize for Autobiography** Included in President Obama’s 2016 Summer Reading List “Without a doubt, the finest surf book I’ve ever read . . . ” —The New York Times Magazine Barbarian Days is William Finnegan’s memoir of an obsession, a complex enchantment. Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates, it is something else: a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a morally dangerous pastime, a way of life. Raised in California and Hawaii, Finnegan started surfing as a child. He has chased waves all over the world, wandering for years through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa. A bookish boy, and then an excessively adventurous young man, he went on to become a distinguished writer and war reporter. Barbarian Days takes us deep into unfamiliar worlds, some of them right under our noses—off the coasts of New York and San Francisco. It immerses the reader in the edgy camaraderie of close male friendships forged in challenging waves. Finnegan shares stories of life in a whites-only gang in a tough school in Honolulu. He shows us a world turned upside down for kids and adults alike by the social upheavals of the 1960s. He details the intricacies of famous waves and his own apprenticeships to them. Youthful folly—he drops LSD while riding huge Honolua Bay, on Maui—is served up with rueful humor. As Finnegan’s travels take him ever farther afield, he discovers the picturesque simplicity of a Samoan fishing village, dissects the sexual politics of Tongan interactions with Americans and Japanese, and navigates the Indonesian black market while nearly succumbing to malaria. Throughout, he surfs, carrying readers with him on rides of harrowing, unprecedented lucidity. Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, an intellectual autobiography, a social history, a literary road movie, and an extraordinary exploration of the gradual mastering of an exacting, little-understood art.

Author: Diane Cardwell
Publisher: Houghton Mifflin
ISBN: 0358067782
Category : Biography & Autobiography
Languages : en
Pages : 275

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Book Description
The inspirational story of one woman learning to surf and creating a new life in gritty, eccentric Rockaway Beach Unmoored by a failed marriage and disconnected from her high-octane life in the city, Diane Cardwell finds herself staring at a small group of surfers coasting through mellow waves toward shore--and senses something shift. Rockawayis the riveting, joyful story of one woman's reinvention--beginning with Cardwell taking the A Train to Rockaway, a neglected spit of land dangling off New York City into the Atlantic Ocean. She finds a teacher, buys a tiny bungalow, and throws her not-overly-athletic self headlong into learning the inner workings and rhythms of waves and the muscle development and coordination needed to ride them. As Cardwell begins to find her balance in the water and out, superstorm Sandy hits, sending her into the maelstrom in search of safer ground. In the aftermath, the community comes together and rebuilds, rekindling its bacchanalian spirit as a historic surfing community, one with its own quirky codes and surf culture. And Cardwell's surfing takes off as she finds a true home among her fellow passionate longboarders at the Rockaway Beach Surf Club, living out "the most joyful path through life." Rockawayis a stirring story of inner salvation sought through a challenging physical pursuit--and of learning to accept the idea of a complete reset, no matter when in life it comes.

Author: Clark Little
Publisher: Ten Speed Press
ISBN: 1984859781
Category : Photography
Languages : en
Pages : 241

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Book Description
Instagram sensation Clark Little shares his most remarkable photographs from inside the breaking wave, with a foreword by world surfing champion Kelly Slater. “One of the world’s most amazing water photographers . . . Now we get to experience up-close these moments of bliss.”—Jack Johnson, musician and environmentalist Surfer and photographer Clark Little creates deceptively peaceful pictures of waves by placing himself under the deadly lip as it is about to hit the sand. "Clark's view" is a rare and dangerous perspective of waves from the inside out. Thanks to his uncanny ability to get the perfect shot--and live to share it--Little has garnered a devout audience, been the subject of award-winning documentaries, and become one of the world's most recognizable wave photographers. Clark Little: The Art of Waves compiles over 150 of his images, including crystalline breaking waves, the diverse marine life of Hawaii, and mind-blowing aerial photography. This collection features his most beloved pictures, as well as work that has never been published in book form, with Little's stories and insights throughout. Journalist Jamie Brisick contributes essays on how Clark gets the shot, how waves are created, swimming with sharks, and more. With a foreword by eleven-time world surfing champion Kelly Slater and an afterword by the author on his photographic practice and technique, Clark Little: The Art of Waves offers a rare view of the wave for us to enjoy from the safety of land.

Author: Bull Quack
Publisher: Independently Published
ISBN: 9781794179820
Category : Travel
Languages : en
Pages : 122

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Book Description
Van Life - Surfer Beach Ocean Waves Surf - Journal

Author: Thom Gilbert
Publisher: Abrams
ISBN: 1683356632
Category : Photography
Languages : en
Pages : 240

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Book Description
A vibrant celebration of surfers in and out of the water from an award-winning photographer Professional photographer Thom Gilbert spent four years among surfer royalty at the top of their game—in Spain, New York, California, and Hawaii—with his camera trained not only on tiny figures disappearing in the waves, but also on the surfers’ faces and bodies back on land. He returned from the beaches with intimate portraits of the world’s best—from the newest talent to the oldest and most revered—and also with dramatic action shots and revealing images of the culture around this sport and lifestyle. The book features not only 300 photographs, but some Q&As with, and hand-written contributions from, prominent figures in the scene. Ultimately, Waves is an ode to surfing and to the men and women who live it every day.