Author: I.R. Young
Publisher: Elsevier
ISBN: 0080543804
Category : Science
Languages : en
Pages : 307
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Book Description
The goals of wind wave research are relatively well defined: to be able to predict the wind wave field and its effect on the environment. That environment could be natural (beaches, the atmosphere etc.) or imposed by human endeavour (ports, harbours, coastal settlements etc.). Although the goals are similar, the specific requirements of these various fields differ considerably.This book attempts to summarise the current state of this knowledge and to place this understanding into a common frame work. It attempts to take a balanced approach between the pragmatic engineering view of requiring a short term result and the scientific quest for detailed understanding. Thus, it attempts to provide a rigorous description of the physical processes involved as well as practical predictive tools.
Author: Peter Janssen
Publisher: Cambridge University Press
ISBN: 0521465400
Category : Science
Languages : en
Pages : 310
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Book Description
This book was published in 2004. The Interaction of Ocean Waves and Wind describes in detail the two-way interaction between wind and ocean waves and shows how ocean waves affect weather forecasting on timescales of 5 to 90 days. Winds generate ocean waves, but at the same time airflow is modified due to the loss of energy and momentum to the waves; thus, momentum loss from the atmosphere to the ocean depends on the state of the waves. This volume discusses ocean wave evolution according to the energy balance equation. An extensive overview of nonlinear transfer is given, and as a by-product the role of four-wave interactions in the generation of extreme events, such as freak waves, is discussed. Effects on ocean circulation are described. Coupled ocean-wave, atmosphere modelling gives improved weather and wave forecasts. This volume will interest ocean wave modellers, physicists and applied mathematicians, and engineers interested in shipping and coastal protection.
Author: Leo H. Holthuijsen
Publisher: Cambridge University Press
ISBN: 1139462520
Category : Science
Languages : en
Pages : 9
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Book Description
Waves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters describes the observation, analysis and prediction of wind-generated waves in the open ocean, in shelf seas, and in coastal regions with islands, channels, tidal flats and inlets, estuaries, fjords and lagoons. Most of this richly illustrated book is devoted to the physical aspects of waves. After introducing observation techniques for waves, both at sea and from space, the book defines the parameters that characterise waves. Using basic statistical and physical concepts, the author discusses the prediction of waves in oceanic and coastal waters, first in terms of generalised observations, and then in terms of the more theoretical framework of the spectral energy balance. He gives the results of established theories and also the direction in which research is developing. The book ends with a description of SWAN (Simulating Waves Nearshore), the preferred computer model of the engineering community for predicting waves in coastal waters.
Author: Ian Young
Publisher: World Scientific
ISBN: 9811208689
Category : Science
Languages : en
Pages : 396
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Book Description
Ocean Wave Dynamics is the most up-to-date book of its kind on the three main processes responsible for the generation and evolution of ocean waves: (i) atmospheric input from the wind, (ii) wave breaking and (iii) nonlinear interactions.Ocean waves are important for many reasons. They are the major environmental impact on in the design of coastal or offshore structures. Ocean waves are also fundamental to the processes of coastal flooding and beach erosion. They will play a major role in storm related coastal flooding which will rise in frequency as a result of sea level rise. Ocean waves are also an important part of the coupled ocean-atmosphere system. They determine the roughness of the ocean surface and hence have an impact on winds, fluxes of energy, gases and heat to the ocean and even the stability of ice sheets.Containing the latest research on ocean waves, it is a valuable resource for an overview of knowledge in this important field.Related Link(s)
Author: Michel K. Ochi
Publisher: Cambridge University Press
ISBN: 052156378X
Category : Science
Languages : en
Pages : 333
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Book Description
Describes the stochastic method for ocean wave analysis - vital information for design and operation of ships.
Author: Robert M. Sorensen
Publisher: Springer Science & Business Media
ISBN: 0387233334
Category : Technology & Engineering
Languages : en
Pages : 331
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Book Description
The second edition (1997) of this text was a completely rewritten version of the original text Basic Coastal Engineering published in 1978. This third edition makes several corrections, improvements and additions to the second edition. Basic Coastal Engineering is an introductory text on wave mechanics and coastal processes along with fundamentals that underline the practice of coastal engineering. This book was written for a senior or first postgraduate course in coastal engineering. It is also suitable for self study by anyone having a basic engineering or physical science background. The level of coverage does not require a math or fluid mechanics background beyond that presented in a typical undergraduate civil or mechanical engineering curriculum. The material p- sented in this text is based on the author’s lecture notes from a one-semester course at Virginia Polytechnic Institute, Texas A&M University, and George Washington University, and a senior elective course at Lehigh University. The text contains examples to demonstrate the various analysis techniques that are presented and each chapter (except the first and last) has a collection of problems for the reader to solve that further demonstrate and expand upon the text material. Chapter 1 briefly describes the coastal environment and introduces the re- tively new field of coastal engineering. Chapter 2 describes the two-dimensional characteristics of surface waves and presents the small-amplitude wave theory to support this description.
Author: Eugene G. Morozov
Publisher: Springer
ISBN: 9783319731582
Category : Science
Languages : en
Pages : 0
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Book Description
This book presents a detailed study of the structure and variability of internal tides and their geographical distribution in the ocean. Based on experimental analysis of oceanic measurements combined with numerical modeling, it offers a comprehensive overview of the internal wave processes around the globe. In particular, it is based on moored buoys observations in many regions in all oceans (Atlantic, Pacific, Indian, Arctic, and Southern) that have been carried out by researchers from different countries for more than 40 years as part of various oceanographic programs, including WOCE and CLIVAR. However, a significant portion of the data was collected by the author, who is a field oceanographer. The data was processed and interpreted on the basis of the latest knowledge of internal wave motion. The properties of internal waves were analyzed in relation to the bottom topography and mean state of the ocean in specific regions. Internal waves play a major role in the formation of seawater stratification and are responsible for the main processes of ocean dynamics, such as energy transfer and mixing. One of the most significant ideas presented in this book is the generation of internal tides over submarine ridges. Energy fluxes from submarine ridges related to tidal internal waves greatly exceed the fluxes from continental slopes. Submarine ridges form an obstacle to the propagation of tidal currents, which can cause the creation of large amplitude internal tides. Energy fluxes from submarine ridges account for approximately one fourth of the total energy dissipation of the barotropic tides. Model simulations and moored measurements have been combined to generate a map of global distribution of internal tide amplitudes. This book is of interest to oceanographers, marine biologists, civil engineers, and scientists working in climate research, fluid mechanics, acoustics, and underwater navigation.
Author: Alexander Babanin
Publisher: Cambridge University Press
ISBN: 1139502727
Category : Science
Languages : en
Pages : 479
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Book Description
Wave breaking represents one of the most interesting and challenging problems for fluid mechanics and physical oceanography. Over the last fifteen years our understanding has undergone a dramatic leap forward, and wave breaking has emerged as a process whose physics is clarified and quantified. Ocean wave breaking plays the primary role in the air-sea exchange of momentum, mass and heat, and it is of significant importance for ocean remote sensing, coastal and ocean engineering, navigation and other practical applications. This book outlines the state of the art in our understanding of wave breaking and presents the main outstanding problems. It is a valuable resource for anyone interested in this topic, including researchers, modellers, forecasters, engineers and graduate students in physical oceanography, meteorology and ocean engineering.
Author: Willard Bascom
Publisher: Anchor
ISBN:
Category : Nature
Languages : en
Pages : 528
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Book Description
Author: Stanislaw R. Massel
Publisher: World Scientific
ISBN: 9789810221096
Category : Science
Languages : en
Pages : 514
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Book Description
This book is intended as a handbook for professionals and researchers in the areas of Physical Oceanography, Ocean and Coastal Engineering and as a text for graduate students in these fields. It presents a comprehensive study on surface ocean waves induced by wind, including basic mathematical principles, physical description of the observed phenomena, practical forecasting techniques of various wave parameters and applications in ocean and coastal engineering, all from the probabilistic and spectral points of view. The book commences with a description of mechanisms of surface wave generation by wind and its modern modeling techniques. The stochastic and probabilistic terminology is introduced and the basic statistical and spectral properties of ocean waves are developed and discussed in detail. The bulk of material deals with the prediction techniques for waves in deep and coastal waters for simple and complex ocean basins and complex bathymetry. The various prediction methods, currently used in oceanography and ocean engineering, are described and the examples of practical calculations illustrate the basic text. An appendix provides a description of the modern methods of wave measurement, including the remote sensing techniques. Also the wave simulation methods and random data analysis techniques are discussed. In the book a lot of discoveries of the Russian and East European scientists, largely unknown in the Western literature due to the language barrier, are referred to.
