The Generation of Longshore Currents on a Plane Beach PDF Download
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Author: Anthony J. Bowen
Publisher:
ISBN:
Category :
Languages : en
Pages : 10
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Book Description
Author: Anthony J. Bowen
Publisher:
ISBN:
Category :
Languages : en
Pages : 10
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Book Description
Author: Cyril Jerome Galvin
Publisher:
ISBN:
Category : Beaches
Languages : en
Pages : 384
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Book Description
Author: Cyril Jerome Galvin
Publisher:
ISBN:
Category : Beaches
Languages : en
Pages : 96
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Author: Cyril Jerome Galvin
Publisher:
ISBN:
Category : Beaches
Languages : en
Pages : 80
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Book Description
Author: Peter S. Eagleson
Publisher:
ISBN:
Category : Ocean changes
Languages : en
Pages : 48
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Book Description
Momentum flux considerations are used to formulate a differential equation governing the growth, with distance, of the mean longshore current velocity in the surf-zone on a plane, impermeable beach due to monochromatic waves. The equation is solved for the flow situation downstream of a surf-zone barrier. Experiments are performed which verify this solution at least at laboratory scale. The asymptotic (uniform flow) form of the relation is also shown to be in good agreement with the field and laboratory data of other investigators. Conclusions are reached governing the size of laboratory models necessary to represent conditions of fully developed longshore currents. (Author).
Author: Edward K. Noda
Publisher:
ISBN:
Category : Hydrodynamics
Languages : en
Pages : 258
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Book Description
The report presents a theoretical analysis on the generation and stabilization of nearshore, wave-induced circulation and longshore current patterns produced by the interaction of the incoming waves and local bottom topography. This interaction results in a spacial variation of wave characteristics which produces the driving mechanism for nearshore circulation patterns. Both normal and oblique wave incidence are considered with the imposed beach profiles developed from an examination of prototype data. The analytical model results are compared to field measurements and yield optimistic results. (Author).
Author: Cyril Jerome Galvin
Publisher:
ISBN:
Category :
Languages : en
Pages : 362
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Author: Peter S. Eagleson
Publisher:
ISBN:
Category :
Languages : en
Pages :
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Author: John Casey Church
Publisher:
ISBN:
Category : Littoral drift
Languages : en
Pages : 140
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Book Description
The momentum equation governing mean longshore currents on straight beaches is a balance of forcing from the momentum transfer of the oscillatory wave motion, turbulent momentum transfer (mixing), and bottom stress. Of these, the wave's contribution is well understood, but the remaining two are not, principally due to the complicated hydrodynamics of the surf-zone. Addressing the bottom stress term, a longshore current model is developed which includes a modification of the bottom stress due to the effects of breaking-wave induced turbulence. A one-dimensional turbulent kinetic energy equation is used to model this breaking-wave induced turbulence, producing a spatially varying bottom friction coefficient. The modeled longshore current cross-shore profiles show improved agreement with field observations. In a second bottom stress study, vertical profiles of mean longshore currents are examined using field data obtained with vertically stacked electromagnetic current meters with the goal of measuring the bottom stress and its associated drag coefficient. The profiles are observed to become vertically uniform whenever the ratio of wave height to depth exceeds 0.3, indicating that nearly all of the waves passing a given location are breaking. Finally, horizontal turbulent momentum transfer (mixing) is examined for the case of shear instabilities of the longshore current.
Author: J. Ian Collins
Publisher:
ISBN:
Category : Bathing beaches
Languages : en
Pages : 136
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Book Description
The report investigates some of the physical aspects of the surf zone with random seas. The statistics of wave height distributions are investigated for the surf zone over gentle sloping beaches. Longshore currents and wave set-up due to random seas are computed and compared with results for periodic waves. The mathematical stability of steady longshore currents on plane beaches is investigated and it is found that such solutions are unstable. (Author).
