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Author: Cyril Jerome Galvin
Publisher:
ISBN:
Category : Ocean currents
Languages : en
Pages : 18
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Book Description
Author: Cyril Jerome Galvin
Publisher:
ISBN:
Category : Ocean currents
Languages : en
Pages : 18
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Book Description
Author: Guy Allen Meadows
Publisher:
ISBN:
Category : Littoral drift
Languages : en
Pages : 200
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Book Description
This field investigation was conducted to obtain simultaneous and continuous measurements of the horizontal, vertical and temporal variability of the longshore current flow field. The present study has resulted in a two-dimensional mapping, across the surf zone and with depth, of the longshore current field. The vertical structure of the mean longshore current flow field is nearly uniform with depth, with a narrow bottom boundary layer and sharp velocity gradients at the water-sediment interface. This investigation has also shown that the total longshore current velocity vector, at any point across the surf zone, is composed of three distinct velocity components. These components are: (1) a steady longshore current velocity component; (2) a long-period fluctuating velocity component which tends to be out-of-phase with the incident wave field and; (3) a short-period fluctuating longshore current velocity component which tends to be in-phase with the incident wave field. The results of this study have further indicated that neither the deterministic radiation stress approach to the prediction of longshore currents, nor a probabilistic formulation, provide adequate prediction of the magnitude or distribution of the longshore current velocity across the surf zone. In addition, the existence of a low velocity zone in the longshore current flow field has been isolated over the submarine bar. It appears that existing analytical formulations for longshore current flow prediction must be re-evaluated in light of the findings of this study. (Author).
Author: Cyril Jerome Galvin
Publisher:
ISBN:
Category : Ocean currents
Languages : en
Pages : 0
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Book Description
Author: Cyril Jerome Galvin
Publisher:
ISBN:
Category : Littoral drift
Languages : en
Pages : 32
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Book Description
Author: John Casey Church
Publisher:
ISBN:
Category : Littoral drift
Languages : en
Pages : 140
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Book Description
The momentum equation governing mean longshore currents on straight beaches is a balance of forcing from the momentum transfer of the oscillatory wave motion, turbulent momentum transfer (mixing), and bottom stress. Of these, the wave's contribution is well understood, but the remaining two are not, principally due to the complicated hydrodynamics of the surf-zone. Addressing the bottom stress term, a longshore current model is developed which includes a modification of the bottom stress due to the effects of breaking-wave induced turbulence. A one-dimensional turbulent kinetic energy equation is used to model this breaking-wave induced turbulence, producing a spatially varying bottom friction coefficient. The modeled longshore current cross-shore profiles show improved agreement with field observations. In a second bottom stress study, vertical profiles of mean longshore currents are examined using field data obtained with vertically stacked electromagnetic current meters with the goal of measuring the bottom stress and its associated drag coefficient. The profiles are observed to become vertically uniform whenever the ratio of wave height to depth exceeds 0.3, indicating that nearly all of the waves passing a given location are breaking. Finally, horizontal turbulent momentum transfer (mixing) is examined for the case of shear instabilities of the longshore current.
Author: John A. Putnam
Publisher:
ISBN:
Category : Littoral drift
Languages : en
Pages : 12
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Author: Antonio Fernando Garcez Faria
Publisher:
ISBN:
Category : Ocean circulation
Languages : en
Pages : 52
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Book Description
The long shore current maximum observed in the trough of a barred beach during the nearshore dynamics experiment DELILAH at Duck, North Carolina, is not predicted by present theory. The simplest longshore curren models balance cross-shore changes in the alongshore wave momentum (radiation stress) with the alongshore bottom shear stress. Waves break over the bar, reform in the trough and again break on the foreshore resulting in changes in the radiation stress, which predicts two jets, one over the bar and the other at the foreshore, which does not agree with the observed current maximum in the trough. The advection of the momentum of the longshore current by mean cross-shore currents as a source of momentum mixing is investigated. The longshore current is strongest toward the surface and decreasing to zero at the bottom. The cross-shore mean current has an onshore transport in the wave crest/trough region and an offshore transport beneath (undertow). The net interaction can induce significant lateral mixing of the alongshore momentum of the mean currents, which is shown using a simplified three- dimension model of nearshore currents to explain much of the differences with observations.
Author: Edward K. Noda
Publisher:
ISBN:
Category : Hydrodynamics
Languages : en
Pages : 258
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Book Description
The report presents a theoretical analysis on the generation and stabilization of nearshore, wave-induced circulation and longshore current patterns produced by the interaction of the incoming waves and local bottom topography. This interaction results in a spacial variation of wave characteristics which produces the driving mechanism for nearshore circulation patterns. Both normal and oblique wave incidence are considered with the imposed beach profiles developed from an examination of prototype data. The analytical model results are compared to field measurements and yield optimistic results. (Author).
Author: Cyril Jerome Galvin
Publisher:
ISBN:
Category : Beaches
Languages : en
Pages : 96
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Book Description
Author: Cyril Jerome Galvin
Publisher:
ISBN:
Category : Littoral drift
Languages : en
Pages : 0
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Book Description
The paper is a compilation of published longshore current data available from North American sources as of January 1966. The data comprise 352 separate observations; of these 225 were obtained from four laboratory studies and 127 from four field studies. Each observation includes (at least) measured longshore current velocity, in feet per second; wave direction; a wave height, in feet; wave period, in seconds; and beach slope. Values of breaker height and breaker angle were computed for those observations lacking measured values. Longshore current velocity is usually less than 2 feet per second under both field and laboratory conditions. The maximum velocity observation from the field is 5.5 feet per second; from the laboratory 3.8 feet per second. (Author).
