Swell

Swell PDF Author: LIZ. CLARK
Publisher: Patagonia
ISBN: 9781952338229
Category : Biography & Autobiography
Languages : en
Pages : 0

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Book Description

Swell

Swell PDF Author: LIZ. CLARK
Publisher: Patagonia
ISBN: 9781952338229
Category : Biography & Autobiography
Languages : en
Pages : 0

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Book Description


I Love You More

I Love You More PDF Author: Paula Panagouleas Miller
Publisher: Balboa Press
ISBN: 1982259191
Category : Juvenile Fiction
Languages : en
Pages : 28

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Book Description
I Love You More shows a daughter what fun jobs mommy has. It is an adventure of a mother and a child in everyday life.

Surf by Day, Jam by Night

Surf by Day, Jam by Night PDF Author: Ash Grunwald
Publisher: Pantera Press
ISBN: 1925700453
Category : Biography & Autobiography
Languages : en
Pages : 334

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Book Description
Surf by Day, Jam by Night is seasoned bluesman and surfer Ash Grunwald's deep dive into the extraordinary. Ash takes to the road, interviewing 15 of the world's top surfer–musicians. From Kelly Slater to Stephanie Gilmore, Jack Johnson to Dave Rastovich, Pete Murray to G. Love and many more, like Ash, these are people doing life their own way. Soulful and candid, these conversations offer insights into the lives and minds of some masters of both surfing and music. Spanning stories of heavy wipe-outs and heaving crowds and riffs on style, the flow state, career longevity and jamming vs shredding, this book is an often light-hearted, wide-ranging meditation on what it really takes to live your dreams. If you've ever found yourself in any kind of rut and wondered if there's something more out there, here's a call to wake up, take your life into your hands and dare to follow your passions.

P.S. I Love You More Than Tuna

P.S. I Love You More Than Tuna PDF Author: Sarah Chauncey
Publisher: Sounds True
ISBN: 1683646983
Category : Self-Help
Languages : en
Pages : 0

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Book Description
“P.S. I Love You More Than Tuna is both a lighthearted celebration of the loving bond between human and cat, and a touching meditation on the eternal nature of that love.” —Jackson Galaxy, host of Animal Planet’s My Cat From Hell An illustrated gift book for adults grieving a companion cat, celebrating the often-quirky bond between humans and felines. Our cats occupy a unique space in our hearts. When they’re gone, the loss can be devastating, the grief profound. P.S. I Love You More Than Tuna gives us an opportunity to give friends, loved ones, or ourselves tangible comfort during the grieving period, when so many of us feel isolated and misunderstood after a beloved pet dies. The author and illustrator (devoted cat lovers themselves) offer this book as a universal love letter from the felines we've bid goodbye to. It celebrates the special bonds we forge with our four-legged companions and reminds us that their love for us—and ours for them—need never end.

It's Great to Suck at Something

It's Great to Suck at Something PDF Author: Karen Rinaldi
Publisher: Atria Books
ISBN: 150119576X
Category : Self-Help
Languages : en
Pages : 256

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Book Description
Discover how the freedom of sucking at something can help you build resilience, embrace imperfection, and find joy in the pursuit rather than the goal. What if the secret to resilience and joy is the one thing we’ve been taught to avoid? When was the last time you tried something new? Something that won’t make you more productive, make you more money, or check anything off your to-do list? Something you’re really, really bad at, but that brought you joy? Odds are, not recently. As a sh*tty surfer and all-around-imperfect human Karen Rinaldi explains in this eye-opening book, we live in a time of aspirational psychoses. We humblebrag about how hard we work and we prioritize productivity over play. Even kids don’t play for the sake of playing anymore: they’re building blocks to build the ideal college application. But we’re all being had. We’re told to be the best or nothing at all. We’re trapped in an epic and farcical quest for perfection. We judge others on stuff we can’t even begin to master, and it’s all making us more anxious and depressed than ever. Worse, we’re not improving on what really matters. This book provides the antidote. (It’s Great to) Suck at Something reveals that the key to a richer, more fulfilling life is finding something to suck at. Drawing on her personal experience sucking at surfing (a sport she’s dedicated nearly two decades of her life to doing without ever coming close to getting good at it) along with philosophy, literature, and the latest science, Rinaldi explores sucking as a lost art we must reclaim for our health and our sanity and helps us find the way to our own riotous suck-ability. She draws from sources as diverse as Anthony Bourdain and surfing luminary Jaimal Yogis, Thich Nhat Hanh, and Jean-Paul Sartre, among many others, and explains the marvelous things that happen to our mammalian brains when we try something new, all to discover what she’s learned firsthand: it is great to suck at something. Sucking at something rewires our brain in positive ways, helps us cultivate grit, and inspires us to find joy in the process, without obsessing about the destination. Ultimately, it gives you freedom: the freedom to suck without caring is revelatory. Coupling honest, hilarious storytelling with unexpected insights, (It’s Great to) Suck at Something is an invitation to embrace our shortcomings as the very best of who we are and to open ourselves up to adventure, where we may not find what we thought we were looking for, but something way more important.

I Love You More Than a Surfer Loves His Board

I Love You More Than a Surfer Loves His Board PDF Author: Sweet Love Press
Publisher:
ISBN:
Category :
Languages : en
Pages : 120

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Book Description
I Love You More Than A Surfer Loves His Board Pick one up for your valentine today! The perfect Valentine's day add on for that special someone This 120 page 6"x9" lined journal with Love Quotes is a perfect year long reminder of your love for that special someone. Whether your gift is used as a diary, journal or notebook, they'll be sure to think of you every time they open the cover. 120 Pages - 6" x 9" Compact and portable size for home use, travel, work, or school - Matte cover

I Love You More Than Surfing

I Love You More Than Surfing PDF Author: Inkdrop Publishing
Publisher:
ISBN: 9781670374479
Category :
Languages : en
Pages : 120

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Book Description
Small daily diary / journal / notebook to write in, for creative writing, for creating lists, for scheduling, organizing and recording your thoughts. Makes an excellent gift idea for birthdays, Christmas or any special occasion. Perfectly sized at 6" x 9" 120 Page Softcover bookbinding Flexible Paperback

Cocaine + Surfing

Cocaine + Surfing PDF Author: Chas Smith
Publisher: Rare Bird Books
ISBN: 9781644280331
Category : Social Science
Languages : en
Pages : 188

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Book Description
From the author of Welcome to Paradise, Now Go To Hell, a finalist for the PEN Center USA Award for Nonfiction One of Pearl Jam's Jeff Ament's Top 10 of 2018 It's no surprise that surfers like to party. The 1960-70s image, bolstered by Tom Wolfe and Big Wednesday, was one of mild outlaws--tanned boys refusing to grow up, spending their days drinking beer and smoking joints on the beach in between mindless hours in the water. But in the 1980s, as surf brands morphed into multibillion-dollar companies, the derelict portrait began to harm business. The external surf image became Kelly Slater and Laird Hamilton, beacons of health, vitality, bravery, and clean-living. Internally, though, surfing had moved on from booze and weed to its heart's true home, its soul's twin flame: cocaine. The rise of cocaine in American popular culture as the choice of rich, white elites was matched, then quadrupled, within surf culture. The parties got wilder, the nights stretched longer, the stories became more ridiculously unbelievable. And there has been no stopping, no dip in passion. It is a forbidden love, and few, if any, outside the surf world know about this particular rhapsody. Drug use is kept very well-hidden, even from insiders, but evidence of its psychosis rears its head from time to time in the form of overdoses, bar fights, surf contests, murders, and cover-ups. Cocaine + Surfing draws back the curtain on a hopped-up, sometimes-sexy, sometimes-deadly relationship and uses cocaine as the vehicle to expose and explain the utterly absurd surf industry to outsiders.

The Average Surfer's Guide

The Average Surfer's Guide PDF Author: Simon Short
Publisher: Createspace Independent Publishing Platform
ISBN: 9781985861886
Category :
Languages : en
Pages : 148

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Book Description
"Heart warming read that discusses depression, radical life change, and muses on the plight of the lifelong intermediate... grab a copy on Amazon" - David Lee Scales, Surf Splendor Podcast "I can recommend this book for non-surfers as much as surfers. It goes a long way towards explaining the hook that keeps people addicted to surfing and provides some personal lessons that can be applied to all walks of life" - Charlie Spurr - The Museum of British Surfing "Once I started reading, I couldn't put it down. The writing is wonderful and Simon really nails it when he defines what an average surfer is and how surfing affects us all" - Imi Barneaud, The Ocean Riders Podcast "Short uses the term "average" not as in mediocre, but to make it relatable to the masses of surfers who are not professionals, and not beginners, but the wave-riders in between. He teaches life lessons with every chapter. You can be scared, intimidated, proud and brave, all in one session" - The Orange County Register From the author of "A Story about Surfing, Identity and Depression" comes the #1 New Release 'The Average Surfer's Guide' The Average Surfer's Guide to Travel, Waves and Progression is a book about surfing as much as it is about mental health, life balance and prioritizing one's passions. The author explores the metaphysical effects of surfing, the biological effects of surfing and how the sport, percolated into a lifestyle opens us up to travel, adventure, community and a true belonging and identity. The book takes us into situations that many are familiar with, but few of us speak of. Short bravely shares details from his darker days fighting a severe depression before learning some valuable life lessons. "Simon Short sat at the end of a Newport Beach rock jetty in the darkness, clutching a gun and ready to end his life as his depression hit an all-time low. For years, Short thought he was on the right track. The surfer from England moved to California after visiting for a surf trip in his early 20s, met a girl who became his wife and had a career as a police officer near Palm Springs. This was what he was supposed to do, right? When it all came crashing down a few years later, he found himself staring out into the ocean, the place that had been his one constant source of solace since he was a teen." Feb 2019 - The OC Register The Average Surfer's Guide takes a unique approach by forgetting the glamour of professional surfing and telling honest, humorous and engaging stories from a true, every-day, average surfer. The book teaches us how to progress away from complacency, both in our surfing and our everyday lives. In the end, this book will make you a better surfer. Not through technique but through teaching a new mindset and outlook towards life and surfing. The Average Surfer's Guide takes us on a journey from dark to light and teaches us how to live a true, balanced life that is authentic to who we are and what makes us happy. In this case, surfing.

Kook

Kook PDF Author: Peter Heller
Publisher: Simon and Schuster
ISBN: 1439171815
Category : Sports & Recreation
Languages : en
Pages : 336

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Book Description
With grit, poetry, and humor, Peter Heller, acclaimed author of The River and The Whale Warriors recounts his remarkable journey of discovery—of surfing, an entirely new challenge; of the ocean’s beauty and power; of the strange surf subculture; of love; and, most of all, of how to seek adventure while crafting a meaningful life. Author of the New York Times bestselling novel The Dog Stars Winner of the National Outdoor Book Award for Literature Having resolved to master a big-hollow wave—that is, to go from kook (surfese for beginner) to shredder—in a single year, Heller travels from Southern California down the coast of Mexico in the company of his girlfriend and the eccentric surfers they meet. Exuberant and fearless, Heller explores the technique and science of surfing the secrets of its culture, and the environmental ravages to the stunning coastline he visits. As Heller plumbs the working of his own heart and finds joy in both love and surfing, he affords readers vivid insight into this fascinating world, with all of its perils and pleasures, its absurdity and wonder. Exhilarating, entertaining, and moving, Kook is a love story between a man and his surfboard, a man and his girlfriend, a not-so-old man and the sea.