Dynamics of Wave Breaking at a Coastal Sea Wall PDF Download
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Author: Arthur L. C. Antoine
Publisher:
ISBN:
Category :
Languages : en
Pages :
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Book Description
Structural designs barely consider the dynamic scenario of a well-developed impinging wave hitting the structure. The usual area of focus is on static and stability factors (e.g. drag, inertia, resistive forces related to weight, buoyancy, sliding etc). Even the "Factor of Safety" which is regularly used in designs to account for unknown and/or unforeseen situations which might occur implies a degree of uncertainty about the dynamic scenario of breaking waves in the coastal environment. In the present study the hydrodynamics of a coastal structure-turbulent bore interaction was studied by examination (two-dimensional) of the singular case of a plunging breaking wave forming a well developed turbulent bore which impacted on a model sea wall structure. The turbulent bore impact event was found to display similar characteristics to the impact event of other wave shapes, in particular that of a plunging breaker. Examination of the impact event confirmed the conversion of nearly all horizontal velocity to vertical velocity during the "flip through" event. In accordance with theoretical expectations the location of maximum pressure was found to occur just below the still water level (SWL). Resulting pressure data in the present study consisted of two blunt spikes as opposed to the "church-roof" (high spike) shape seen in other results. The shape of the pressure data was attributed to the following: firstly, to the initial impact of the protruding jet of the breaking wave which causes the first maxima, secondly, to the sensor encountering the bulk of the entrapped air hence causing the drop in pressure between the blunt spikes and lastly, to the inherent hydrostatic pressure combined with the compression of the entrapped air bubbles, by the subsequent forward motion of the water within the wave, which causes the second maxima. The point of maximum pressure was found to always be within the second maxima. Observation of the turbulent bore-structure interaction showed that the consequential maximum pressure was a direct result of the compression of entrapped air by the weight of the water in the wave as it continued forward onto the structure combined with the inherent hydrostatic pressure of the wave. The project was conducted in an attempt to contribute to the vast knowledge of coastal structure-wave interactions and to add to the understanding of the physics and characteristics of breaking waves. Whilst numerous studies and experiments have been carried out on the phenomenon of breaking waves by previous researchers the current project highlights the advent of new equipment and technological advances in existing methods.
Author: Arthur L. C. Antoine
Publisher:
ISBN:
Category :
Languages : en
Pages :
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Book Description
Structural designs barely consider the dynamic scenario of a well-developed impinging wave hitting the structure. The usual area of focus is on static and stability factors (e.g. drag, inertia, resistive forces related to weight, buoyancy, sliding etc). Even the "Factor of Safety" which is regularly used in designs to account for unknown and/or unforeseen situations which might occur implies a degree of uncertainty about the dynamic scenario of breaking waves in the coastal environment. In the present study the hydrodynamics of a coastal structure-turbulent bore interaction was studied by examination (two-dimensional) of the singular case of a plunging breaking wave forming a well developed turbulent bore which impacted on a model sea wall structure. The turbulent bore impact event was found to display similar characteristics to the impact event of other wave shapes, in particular that of a plunging breaker. Examination of the impact event confirmed the conversion of nearly all horizontal velocity to vertical velocity during the "flip through" event. In accordance with theoretical expectations the location of maximum pressure was found to occur just below the still water level (SWL). Resulting pressure data in the present study consisted of two blunt spikes as opposed to the "church-roof" (high spike) shape seen in other results. The shape of the pressure data was attributed to the following: firstly, to the initial impact of the protruding jet of the breaking wave which causes the first maxima, secondly, to the sensor encountering the bulk of the entrapped air hence causing the drop in pressure between the blunt spikes and lastly, to the inherent hydrostatic pressure combined with the compression of the entrapped air bubbles, by the subsequent forward motion of the water within the wave, which causes the second maxima. The point of maximum pressure was found to always be within the second maxima. Observation of the turbulent bore-structure interaction showed that the consequential maximum pressure was a direct result of the compression of entrapped air by the weight of the water in the wave as it continued forward onto the structure combined with the inherent hydrostatic pressure of the wave. The project was conducted in an attempt to contribute to the vast knowledge of coastal structure-wave interactions and to add to the understanding of the physics and characteristics of breaking waves. Whilst numerous studies and experiments have been carried out on the phenomenon of breaking waves by previous researchers the current project highlights the advent of new equipment and technological advances in existing methods.
Author: Ian Young
Publisher: World Scientific
ISBN: 9811208689
Category : Science
Languages : en
Pages : 396
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Book Description
Ocean Wave Dynamics is the most up-to-date book of its kind on the three main processes responsible for the generation and evolution of ocean waves: (i) atmospheric input from the wind, (ii) wave breaking and (iii) nonlinear interactions.Ocean waves are important for many reasons. They are the major environmental impact on in the design of coastal or offshore structures. Ocean waves are also fundamental to the processes of coastal flooding and beach erosion. They will play a major role in storm related coastal flooding which will rise in frequency as a result of sea level rise. Ocean waves are also an important part of the coupled ocean-atmosphere system. They determine the roughness of the ocean surface and hence have an impact on winds, fluxes of energy, gases and heat to the ocean and even the stability of ice sheets.Containing the latest research on ocean waves, it is a valuable resource for an overview of knowledge in this important field.Related Link(s)
Author: Willard Bascom
Publisher:
ISBN:
Category : Beaches
Languages : en
Pages : 320
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Book Description
This book deals with the formation of waves that travel on the surface between ocean and atmosphere.
Author: Vallam Sundar
Publisher: World Scientific
ISBN: 9811236682
Category : Technology & Engineering
Languages : en
Pages : 362
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Book Description
The increase in exploration and exploitation of ocean resources, maritime trade and ocean energy have led to development of new concepts in the study of coastal and marine structures. These developments necessitate comprehensive and in-depth knowledge of ocean wave behavior in the offshore as well as in the nearshore, such as the phenomena of wave generation, propagation, deformation and its effects, which help to enlighten our understanding of its influence on coastal and offshore structures.Ocean Wave Dynamics for Coastal and Marine Structures is a recommended textbook for students and researchers in ocean sciences, engineering and related topics. It offers application of theoretical formulae to practical relevance through problem solving. This book will also be invaluable for professionals in ports, offshore and marine industries as well as consulting companies.
Author: Richard C. Delmonte
Publisher:
ISBN:
Category : Ocean waves
Languages : en
Pages : 78
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Book Description
The purpose of the paper is to examine theories and data related to wave pressures induced on a vertical seawall by the impingement of water waves which have broken seaward of the wall. The report compares the six articles found by the writer, which relate directly to this subject. Each of the independent studies is reviewed briefly in regard to its purpose, test procedure, theory proposed, test results and conclusions. Comparison of data and theory of the studies is then made. (Author).
Author: A. Tørum
Publisher: Springer Science & Business Media
ISBN: 9400905319
Category : Technology & Engineering
Languages : en
Pages : 751
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Book Description
Water wave kinematics is a central field of study in ocean and coastal engineering. The wave forces on structures as well as sand erosion both on coastlines and in the ocean are to a large extent governed by the local distribution of velocities and accelerations of the water particles. Our knowledge of waves has generally been derived from measurements of the water surface elevations. The reason for this is that the surface elevations have been of primary interest and fairly cheap and reliable instruments have been developed for such measurements. The water wave kinematics has then been derived from the surface elevation information by various theories. However. the different theories for the calculation of water particle velocities and acceleration have turned out to give significant differences in the calculated responses of structures. In recent years new measurement techniques have made it possible to make accurate velocity measurements. Hence. the editors deemed it to be useful to bring together a group of experts working actively as researchers in the field of water wave kinematics. These experts included theoreticians as well as experimentalists on wave kinematics. It was also deemed useful to include experts on the response of structures to have their views from a structural engineering point of view on what information is really needed on water wave kinematics.
Author: Alan F. Blumberg
Publisher: Cambridge University Press
ISBN: 1107191998
Category : Business & Economics
Languages : en
Pages : 249
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Book Description
Describes the physics of the coastal ocean, for advanced students, researchers, urban planners, and environmental engineers.
Author: Robert M. Sorensen
Publisher: John Wiley & Sons
ISBN: 9780471551652
Category : Technology & Engineering
Languages : en
Pages : 310
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Book Description
Intended for coastal engineers and marine scientists who desire to develop a fundamental physical understanding of ocean waves and be able to apply this knowledge to ocean and coastal analysis and design. Provides an introduction to the physical processes of ocean wave mechanics, an understanding of the basic techniques for wave analysis, techniques for practical calculation and prediction of waves and applied wave forecasting.
Author: Sundar Vallam
Publisher: World Scientific
ISBN: 9813275928
Category : Technology & Engineering
Languages : en
Pages : 364
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Book Description
This book can potentially serve as a comprehensive textbook for students pursuing this subject either as degree or an elective course. It covers all the fundamental physics behind the different phenomena taking place in the near shore regions and the coast as well as the various methods to estimate its impact. Basic knowledge of water wave mechanics is crucial in understanding the coastal processes taking place in the near shore. The assessment of incident forces due to wind, wave, tide, current etc. is important to evaluate the resultant impact they cause on the shoreline and structures.This book emphasizes the importance of sediment dynamics by analyzing the sediment characteristics, the physics of its motion and movement, factors responsible for the fate of sediments etc. It also highlights the erosion problem which is most prevalent across the sandy coasts, additionally erosion combating methods and techniques are also described with real time field problems and their solutions.A wide range of coastal structures and their design principles are included in this book in order to give the reader a holistic understanding to the readers. This book also includes the design challenges and introduces the reliable modeling tools and techniques, which is very useful for beginners working in this discipline.
Author: Chiang C. Mei
Publisher: World Scientific
ISBN: 9789971507893
Category : Science
Languages : en
Pages : 770
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Book Description
The aim of this book is to present selected theoretical topics on ocean wave dynamics, including basic principles and applications in coastal and offshore engineering, all from the deterministic point of view. The bulk of the material deals with the linearized theory.
