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Author: United States. Hydrographic Office
Publisher:
ISBN:
Category : Ocean waves
Languages : en
Pages : 96
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Book Description
Author: United States. Hydrographic Office
Publisher:
ISBN:
Category : Ocean waves
Languages : en
Pages : 96
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Book Description
Author: Henry Bryant Bigelow
Publisher:
ISBN:
Category : Waves
Languages : en
Pages : 212
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Author:
Publisher:
ISBN:
Category :
Languages : en
Pages :
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Author: Henry Bryant Bigelow
Publisher:
ISBN: 9781258369231
Category :
Languages : en
Pages : 216
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Book Description
Hydrographic Office Publication, No. 609.
Author: University of California, Berkeley. Institute of Engineering Research
Publisher:
ISBN:
Category : Beaches
Languages : en
Pages : 56
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Author: Victor Sandiford Hultstrand
Publisher:
ISBN:
Category : Kinematics
Languages : en
Pages : 146
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Book Description
Measurements were made of the water level fluctuations and horizontal water particle velocities in breaking waves. The breaking waves were identified and classified. The mean value of the height of breaking to depth of breaking was calculated and found to be 0.86 for a composite of the waves measured; the mean ratio values for collapsing, plunging and spilling were 0.84, 0.87 and 0.90, respectively. Probability distributions were plotted for wave heights and horizontal velocities and qualitatively compared with Rayleigh distributions; the wave distributions fit well but velocity did not. The spectra of wave profile and horizontal velocity were calculated and indicated a narrow banded data set. The coherence values between horizontal water particle velocities and wave profile were generally high, indicating that the horizontal particle velocities measured were highly wave-induced. The phase shift at the peak energy frequency was about 40 deg which suggested the presence of reflected waves. (Author).
Author:
Publisher:
ISBN:
Category :
Languages : en
Pages :
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Author: Joe William Johnson
Publisher:
ISBN:
Category : Head waves
Languages : en
Pages : 64
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Author: Henry B. Bigelow
Publisher:
ISBN: 9781410203625
Category : Science
Languages : en
Pages : 216
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Book Description
This is a reprint of an excellent 1947 U. S. Naval Hydrographic Office publication on wind, waves, breakers and surf. Chapters include: The Physical Nature of Wind Waves, The Dimensions of Waves, The Contours of Waves (effects of currents, shoals, measurement), Seas and Swells, The Frequency of High
Author:
Publisher:
ISBN:
Category : Wave-motion, Theory of
Languages : en
Pages : 28
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